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Safe....well... and SMART! bouldering
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Apr 12, 2006
A few weeks ago a friend, my brother, and I took our first outdoor bouldering excursion. Long story short: we amateurs misplaced the pad, misjudged the fall, poorly assessed the overall situation, and my brother twisted the shit out of his ankle. The "Talus" plate on his ankle snapped in half. He'll need surgery, pins, a cast, and have one bummer summer! This will never happen to us again, but I hope to help anyone else avoid this shit! Just take an extra second to be safe, and smart!! -Paul paul behee
Joined Apr 8, 2006
1 points
Apr 12, 2006
Rock Climbing Photo: You can love your rope but you can't "LOVE&qu...
John Sherman wrote a book years ago that had excellent tips on spotting and pad placement as well as other safety and ethics stuff. I can't remember the name of the book and it is probably out of print, but it sure was good! It might be worth trying to find a copy. Go Verm! Lee Smith
Joined Sep 5, 2003
1,686 points
Jun 20, 2006
Rock Climbing Photo: Bocan
I read Sherman's book, and I recommend picking it up...It really just wraps up the whole game. I'm about to jump back in for the second read, but it should be an addition on everyone's shelf. Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Joined Feb 15, 2006
1,522 points
Jan 10, 2007
I just bought a second hand copy. "Better Bouldering" by John Sherman.
A Falcon Guide. Nice book.
Joined Dec 16, 2006
0 points
Jun 29, 2010
Learn how to give a good spot. I tell people this all the time, especially those who continuously drag their pads beneath lowballs. Your pads worth nothing if you don't fall onto it. Helldorado
From Boulder, CO
Joined Feb 8, 2006
38 points
Jun 29, 2010
Rock Climbing Photo: Me
Spotting and all other safety related climbing techniques should be practiced at all times. Unfortunately a lot of it is something where only the concept can be learned from a book and not everything is covered in a book so experience plays a big part too. I suggest you go out with someone well experienced many a times to learn as much as possible before you go venturing on your own. Even in that case climbing is an inherently dangerous sport so in layman's terms shit happens. I've seen bad pad placement and a snapped ankle when I was climbing with 2 people who combined had over 20+ years bouldering experience. Also look at the latest Eldo Accident. Two very experienced careful climbers... shit happens... Squish
From Lakewood
Joined May 19, 2009
136 points
Jun 29, 2010
Rock Climbing Photo: Me and Spearhead
After nearly 15 yrs of climbing I would have to say that bouldering is by far the most dangerous aspect of climbing that I've participated in.

The ground is very unforgiving and in bouldering EVERY fall is a ground fall.
I hope that your brother makes a quick recovery and that this post maybe makes a few people a little more conscientious as the alpine bouldering season is in full swing out here in Rado.
Brent Apgar
From Out of the Loop
Joined Oct 20, 2007
144 points
Jun 29, 2010
Rock Climbing Photo: Top of the 3rd pitch of Touchstone at Zion NP.
slacklining is excellent practice to learn the ins and outs of falling correctly. I always imagine those boulderers before pad technology came in to play knew how to fall lightly and correctly. Said
From Redlands, Ca
Joined Nov 23, 2008
616 points

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