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Safety concerns for San Juan, Wham Ridge.
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By Lspade
From Chaska, MN
Jul 9, 2013
Standing on top of Spire 2!

I am hoping that you guys can give me some details about the exposure of Wham Ridge. My wife and I climb single pitch routes together weekly but when I brought her on her first multipitch route (300' 5.8) she became so terrified after the first pitch that we had to bail. A few months later we tried again with the same results. Is there ever a portion of the mountain that you must rely solely on handholds to keep from tumbling to the bottom? I believe she will be fine if she can always stand on her toes and doesn't have to make any committing moves.

Thanks for the input!


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By Chris Wenker
From Santa Fe
Jul 9, 2013
Bandera

The position of Wham lends to tremendous and exciting exposure.
I don't recall any specific moves, but I'd warrant that there are some 'committing' technical moves here and there.
From your description (and, having been in a similar situation in the past with a partner), I'd suggest that you guys aren't quite ready.

Or, try the 4th class on Arrow the day before, and if that goes well then try Wham.


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By Ellenore Zimmerman
Jul 9, 2013
me

Blind fold her!


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By BSheriden
Jul 9, 2013

Is this something she wants to do or are you doing it for your own selfish reasons? It sounds like she is not interested in doing exposed multi pitch so I think you need to find a new partner. Let her choose what she wants to do.


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By slim
Administrator
Jul 9, 2013
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.

it's slabby and there isn't much gear. i think you are asking for trouble. if she ends up wanting to bail, you will be struggling.


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By Devin Fin
From DURANGO
Jul 9, 2013
dream canyon fun!

Slim +1 not the rig to get the wife on .


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By slk
From Reno, NV
Jul 9, 2013
me

BSheriden wrote:
Is this something she wants to do or are you doing it for your own selfish reasons? It sounds like she is not interested in doing exposed multi pitch so I think you need to find a new partner. Let her choose what she wants to do.



ditto, doesn't sound like she's into it.


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By Cor
Jul 9, 2013
black nasty

San Juans are chossy... So I would suggest another range, with solid rock.
That is if you want to have a successful day.


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By Mark E Dixon
From Sprezzatura, Someday
Jul 9, 2013
At the BRC

You might have more success doing a progression in the flatirons, The Spy, then the First Flatironette, then maybe the North Ridge of the 1st, then the 3rd Flatiron. All classic, pretty easy and would gradually build up the exposure. Finish with a scrambling route in the Indian Peaks or a 14er.

Push too hard and she may be done with multipitch for good.


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By chosspector
From San Juans, CO
Jul 10, 2013

Cor wrote:
San Juans are chossy... So I would suggest another range, with solid rock. That is if you want to have a successful day.


Obviously you haven't done the route in question. Gotta love the bad reputation the San Juans get, keeps the D-Bags away!

LSpade, If you are looking to climb in the area anyway, I would try the NW buttress on Snowden peak with her as a trial run. You can bail out at virtually any point to a gully to the climber's right, and the approach is only a couple miles. This route has very Wham-esque climbing with solid rock and good exposure. You could rope up but you'd be basically belaying every time you found some good gear. The quartzite cracks tend to seam out, but the rock has very good holds. There are also some bolted multi-pitch routes near Eureka, up stream from Silverton, one of which is 5 pitches of 5.7 and you can bail at any point. Have Fun!


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By Cor
Jul 10, 2013
black nasty

Choss, I guess a better way I should have puf it would be to say...

Most San Jaun mountains have junk, and if the partner in question is bailing on a 300 ft. 5.8 because of things feeling committing, then I would not suggest going to do a 2000 ft in the mountains, that does not have gear everywhere, and is a ridge dropping off both sides. If you would want success, and want her to like it, maybe build up a little by little.

But yes, you are right, I have not climbed that route, but have climbed in the San Juans... Probably with your friends...


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By chosspector
From San Juans, CO
Jul 10, 2013

Cor wrote:
Probably with your friends...

No doubt!!


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By Lspade
From Chaska, MN
Jul 10, 2013
Standing on top of Spire 2!

Thank you for all of the recommendations guys! I have plenty of climbing partners who would like to climb mountains with me but I enjoy climbing with my wife too much. I think it would be great to stand on a big summit with her after a long day of climbing so I am looking for something more technical than hiking but less committing than rock climbing. I will definitely look into your suggestions. Thanks again!


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By Mark E Dixon
From Sprezzatura, Someday
Jul 10, 2013
At the BRC

Take a look at the book 'Colorado Scrambles' Lots of great suggestions.
You might consider Wetterhorn Peak also. A day hike, with a short exposed class 3 pitch at the top. Not as crowded as many of the other 14ers.
West ridge of Quandry is a fun scramble, as is the SW ridge of Sneffels, but both are really crowded once you summit and join the regular route.


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By Dave Hurst
From Boulder CO
Jul 10, 2013

I'd stay home, and bake some cookies.


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By Cor
Jul 10, 2013
black nasty

Stay home?!?! But baking is Boulder is way more fun than baking in St.Paul!


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By martinharris
From Glenwood Springs CO
Jul 10, 2013

Wham ridge is clean safe and sick however if your wife gets scared 3 pitches up I would defiantly not take her with. I took the center route on vestal and simo-climbed and soled it in a few hours however it was very intimidating just getting off the ground. Do the route but take some one else or your wife will probably be bummed.


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By Lspade
From Chaska, MN
Jul 10, 2013
Standing on top of Spire 2!

Mark E Dixon wrote:
Take a look at the book 'Colorado Scrambles' Lots of great suggestions. You might consider Wetterhorn Peak also. A day hike, with a short exposed class 3 pitch at the top. Not as crowded as many of the other 14ers. West ridge of Quandry is a fun scramble, as is the SW ridge of Sneffels, but both are really crowded once you summit and join the regular route.


I googled Wetterhorn and that is exactly the type of climb I have been trying to find.

Thank you!


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By Max Supertramp
Jul 11, 2013

Just did it for the first time a couple weeks ago. Wham is not a route for people uncomfortable with serious ropeless exposure. I guess Arrow as a warmup might be best but from the sounds of it she would very much unenjoy the experience. Have fun and please do report back to share your epic meltdown - er, adventure.


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