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Jailhouse Rock
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Safecracker 

5.11a/b

   
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Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet
Consensus: 5.11- [details]
FA: Chris Henze, Cyrena Goodrich & Eric Fazio-Rhicard 1988
Submitted By: Luke Bertelsen on Apr 26, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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Mark attempts to crack this safe

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Description 

This route ascends small ledges leading to a thin crack which takes you to a set of chain anchors. It overhangs slightly and is very pumpy. There are good gear placements, but the climbing is tiring. I have seen some good leader falls on this line. It is to the left of the prominent crack system of Crime and Punishment on Jailhouse Rock.


Protection 

This route is mostly gear (small to medium cams or mid-sized nuts) with one bolt and chain anchors at the top. It can be toproped if someone wants to walk around to the top and descend to the anchors. Be careful



Photos of Safecracker Slideshow Add Photo
Safe not cracked this day.

Safe not cracked this day.

My cracker ass cracking the safe the easy way, with pre-placed gear..Outstanding route... <br /> <br /> <br /> <br />

My cracker ass cracking the safe the easy way, wit...

Took two tries for Andy to crush this climb into submission.  Good example of mind over body at the crux.

Took two tries for Andy to crush this climb into s...

Gier walking up.

Gier walking up.

Clip...

Clip...

Greg sending.

Greg sending.


Comments on Safecracker Add Comment
Show which comments
By 1Eric Rhicard
Mar 6, 2007

Good small wires and a very small cam can be found just before the final crux but you need some hang on to get them.

By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Apr 21, 2009
rating: 5.11a

This is a great, fun route. The gear is quite good, but it gets a bit spaced out toward the top of the climb. The final crux can be protected nicely with a blue alien and a yellow alien.

By Clay Mansfield
Feb 17, 2011

You don't hear much about this route, but I thought it was great. Really excited to get on it again.