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DescriptionSafe Harbor is a sport crag that was closed for most of the last 15 years. Though originally established as a runout (R and X) trad crag, it is now one of Pennsylvania's best sport climbing destinations. Most rock here is low angle with good friction, with a few steeper lines mixed in; like the classic steep arete Wonderama (5.12b) in Safe Harbor South. The walls of Safe Harbor all face west-southwest, giving it plenty of daylight - very inviting in cool weather. After dark, I've seen groups climbing by headlamp. Getting ThereFrom Lancaster, Pennsylvania, take New Danville Pike south to Conestoga (5 miles from Central Park, Lancaster). Turn right on Main Street (3 1/2 miles). When Main Street ends in a T-intersection, turn left of River Road, and you will drive through Safe Harbor Park. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Safe Harbor:
Public Service 5.8+ Sport, 80 feet Safe Harbor South : b. Electric Co. Sector
Slab Master 5.9 Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet Safe Harbor South : e. Super Slab Sector
Mental As Anything 5.9+ Sport, 1 pitch Safe Harbor South : j. Hydroman Sector
Safe Harbor Direct 5.9+ Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50 feet Safe Harbor South : b. Electric Co. Sector
Demon In My Semen 5.10a Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet Safe Harbor South : i. Train in Vain Sector
Tenuous Odyssey 5.10a Sport, 1 pitch Safe Harbor South : c. Tenuous Odyssey Sector
Locomotion 5.10a/b Sport, 1 pitch Safe Harbor South : f. Autumn Arch Sector
Electric Co. 5.10b Sport, 1 pitch, 30 feet Safe Harbor South : b. Electric Co. Sector
Autumn Arch 5.10b Sport, 1 pitch, 85 feet Safe Harbor South : f. Autumn Arch Sector
Numero Uno 5.10c Sport, 50 feet Safe Harbor South : h. Numero Uno Sector
Urban Daydreams 5.10d Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet Safe Harbor South : f. Autumn Arch Sector
Super Slab 5.10d Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet, Grade V Safe Harbor South : e. Super Slab Sector
Hydroman 5.11a/b Sport, 1 pitch Safe Harbor South : j. Hydroman Sector
Static Cling 5.11b/c Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 80 feet Safe Harbor South : f. Autumn Arch Sector
Doppelganger 5.11c Sport, 80 feet Safe Harbor South : f. Autumn Arch Sector
Machismo 5.11c/d Sport, 65 feet Safe Harbor South : d. Machismo Sector
Sugar High 5.11d Sport, 35 feet Safe Harbor South : b. Electric Co. Sector
White Stripes 5.12a Sport, 65 feet Safe Harbor South : f. Autumn Arch Sector
Blood Sugar Magic 5.12a Sport, 35 feet Safe Harbor South : a. Blood Sugar Magic Sector
Wonderama 5.12b Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet Safe Harbor South : f. Autumn Arch Sector
Featured Route For Safe Harbor
Autumn Arch 5.10b PA : Safe Harbor : ... : f. Autumn Arch Sector
This route is fantastic - varied between the upper and lower halves, long, interesting moves and great stemming! Nice view from the top too. From the Rock & Ice guide published in issue #51: "Mega-classic corner with great stemming. Beware - A 165-foot [50m] rope is required to lower off this, and adjacent routes!"...[more] Browse More Classics in PA
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