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Safe Harbor South

Select Area...
a. Blood Sugar Magic Sector 
b. Electric Co. Sector 
c. Tenuous Odyssey Sector 
d. Machismo Sector 
e. Super Slab Sector 
f. Autumn Arch Sector 
g. The Righteous and the Wicked Sector 
h. Numero Uno Sector 
i. Train in Vain Sector 
j. Hydroman Sector 

Safe Harbor South 


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Location: 39.90803, -76.3642 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 60,192
Administrators: Justin Johnsen, The Stoned Master, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Justin Johnsen on Nov 18, 2011
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BETA PHOTO: Area overview, Blood Sugar Magic sector not shown,...

Description 

Over eighty bolted single pitch sport routes along an abandoned railroad bed, a bit south of Safe Harbor Dam. Many of these have updated stainless steel hardware since their reopening in 2011, while some include 1980's or earlier vintage bolts and cold shuts.

Approaching from south to north, the climbing sectors reached (in order) are: Blood Sugar Magic, Electric Co., Tenuous Odyssey, Machismo, Super Slab, Autumn Arch, the Righteous and the Wicked, Numero Uno, Train in Vain, and Hydroman.

Eric Hörst's Safe Harbor Climbing website has a few mini-guide to climbing the south areas. The area divisions used here are his.


Getting There 

From Lancaster, Pennsylvania, take New Danville Pike south to Conestoga (5 miles from Central Park, Lancaster). Turn right on Main Street (3 1/2 miles). When Main Street ends in a T-intersection, turn left of River Road, and you will drive through Safe Harbor Park.

If your party has more than one vehicle, leave them at the park, and carpool from there.

Continue on River Road south for over a mile. Turn right on the winding and rural Green Hill Road. After around a mile, the pavement ends. Follow the road right and downhill, following a flower preserve sign. You'll reach the tunnel shortly. Park your carpool on the side of the road on either side of the tunnel, making sure not to block traffic. There's enough room for many vehicles to park here.

On the uphill side of the tunnel off Green Hill Road, follow a side trail uphill next to high tension power lines. It will connect you to the old rail trail (with no rails left) where it crosses over the top of the tunnel.

Warning: If you end up on the lower rail trail, with rails and trains running on it, you're off-route.

Hike the rail trail north to the first sector of Safe Harbor South (around 1/2 mile).


Climbing Season


115 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',26],['2 Stars',65],['1 Star',24],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',4],['5.7',7],['5.8',8],['5.9',28],['5.10',33],['5.11',22],['5.12',9],['5.13',4],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Safe Harbor South:
Public Service   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 80'   b. Electric Co. Sector
Slab Master   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   e. Super Slab Sector
Old School High Ball   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 30'   b. Electric Co. Sector
Safe Harbor Direct   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   b. Electric Co. Sector
Mental As Anything   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch   j. Hydroman Sector
Tenuous Odyssey   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch   c. Tenuous Odyssey Sector
Demon In My Semen   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   i. Train in Vain Sector
Locomotion   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch   f. Autumn Arch Sector
Electric Co.   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 30'   b. Electric Co. Sector
Autumn Arch   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   f. Autumn Arch Sector
Numero Uno   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 50'   h. Numero Uno Sector
Super Slab   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   e. Super Slab Sector
Urban Daydreams   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   f. Autumn Arch Sector
Hydroman   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch   j. Hydroman Sector
Doppelganger   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 80'   f. Autumn Arch Sector
Sugar High   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 35'   b. Electric Co. Sector
Machismo   5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a     Sport, 65'   d. Machismo Sector
Blood Sugar Magic   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 35'   a. Blood Sugar Magic Sector
White Stripes   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 65'   f. Autumn Arch Sector
Wonderama   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   f. Autumn Arch Sector
Browse More Classics in Safe Harbor South

Featured Route For Safe Harbor South
Leader is on Wonderama; climber to the right is on Locomotion.

Wonderama 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b  PA : Safe Harbor : ... : f. Autumn Arch Sector
The striking arete right of the large Autumn Arch corner. There were a couple of decent rest spots to shake the pump out of your right arm - that is getting most of the workout on this overhanging arete....[more]   Browse More Classics in PA

Photos of Safe Harbor South Slideshow Add Photo
Safe Harbor South's walls parallel old electric lines across an abandoned railroad bed.
BETA PHOTO: Safe Harbor South's walls parallel old electric li...
Looking upstream at Safe Harbor Dam from the south.
Looking upstream at Safe Harbor Dam from the south...
The Dam at Safe Harbor
The Dam at Safe Harbor
Sunset over the Susquehanna, from Safe Harbor South.
Sunset over the Susquehanna, from Safe Harbor Sout...
Our very own "carriage road"
Our very own "carriage road"
the tunnel at the far side parking
the tunnel at the far side parking
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