Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
b. Electric Co. Sector
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
After Thought? S 
Black V S 
Can't Remember S 
Clever Retort S 
Electric Co. S 
Lost Boys S 
Maggie S,TR 
Mia S 
Old School High Ball S 
Public Service S 
Safe Harbor Direct S,TR 
Snake Route S 
Sugar High S 
Trad/Solo T 
Two Pines S,TR 
Under Fire S,TR 

Safe Harbor Direct 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,255
Submitted By: Justin Johnsen on Nov 27, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (33)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Ty ponders his next move on SHD

Description 

Similar to its slabby neighbors, but SHD requires more thinking and delicate balance for some moves. A pleasure to climb.

Apparently, when you hit the crux, if you head Left to the arete the climb is in the 5.7 area, and if you head right and up then traverse back left using the diagonaling crack, it's around 5.8. The true 5.9+ goes straight up the blank face.

Location 

Easy to find since "WPS" is spraypainted at the bottom.

Protection 

6 bolts to anchors, hardware in good condition.


Photos of Safe Harbor Direct Slideshow Add Photo
Frank belays while Kristin nears the crux of Safe Harbor Direct on a borrowed toprope - thanks climbing neighbors.
BETA PHOTO: Frank belays while Kristin nears the crux of Safe ...
Safe Harbor Direct (left, greenish rope) and Public Service (right, orangish rope).
BETA PHOTO: Safe Harbor Direct (left, greenish rope) and Publi...
Brandon Adam on lead at the crux of Safe Harbor Direct
BETA PHOTO: Brandon Adam on lead at the crux of Safe Harbor Di...

Comments on Safe Harbor Direct Add Comment
Show which comments
By Larry S
Dec 20, 2011

Apparently, when you hit the crux, if you head Left to the arete the climb is in the 5.7 area, and if you head right and up then traverse back left using the diagonaling crack, it's around 5.8. The true 5.9+ goes straight up the blank face.
By Tyrel Fuller
From: Denver, CO
Jan 18, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This really should be listed at a much easier grade. The 5.9 grade is only relevant if you ignore the left hand arete or the good holds out right.
By Mike Allegrezza
May 18, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I actually think climbing this crux straight up the face is much harder than the crux of Super Slab. The angle is steeper and there is less friction. And if you blow a move climbing around it using the 5.7 arete or 5.8 right side, be prepared for a swinging whipper.