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Safari Jive Double Direct  

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 170'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Bruce Burgess, Tim Snyder (fall 08)
Season: spring, summer, fall
Page Views: 986
Submitted By: gneiss pirate on Jul 27, 2010

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Description 

This great alternative to the original pitch adds mutiple 5.11 sequences and when combined with the upper pitch makes for a 170 ft pumpfest. Start left of the tree that is leaning against the wall. Move generally up and right over small and medium gear to a bolt. Fire past the bolt and move into the bulge with a crack going through it. The original direct(FA Kris Kline)came in from the right and pulled this same bulge. Crank this crack/bulge to join back into the original line. Belay here or continue to the top for the enduro finish.

Location 

Starts right of the original Safari start and left of the leaning tree.

Protection 

Many long runners, nuts, small tcus to orange or c3s, grey and red aliens, tricams, double 1/4 to 1 inch cams, 2 or 3 inch cam for the very start


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By Casserly
Oct 21, 2012

For a great super pitch you can link this direct pitch into the standard Safari crux pitch and continue past the anchors to tack on the cool eyebrow arete above. Requires a 70m rope.