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North Clear Creek
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Saddam Hussein 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

   
Type: Sport, 2 pitches, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Glenn Ritter
Season: Any
Page Views: 1,468
Submitted By: chummer on Jan 14, 2008
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Description 

Despite the chossy ledge midway and silly name I feel this route is a classic. Above the 1/3 height ledge the rock changes to some of the most clean and textured stone I've ever seen. The position near the top is fantastic. AND the climb is nearly always dry, even in a downpour like most of the routes here.


Location 

On the far right edge of the Rasputin ledge but just before the massively overhung "Bee Wall." Start in left facing corner. Climb to ledge and belay or runner prudently and keep pullin'.


Protection 

16/18 (anchors) draws. Cold Shuts for anchors. If you're top roping make sure to use your own draws to save the wear on the shuts. 70 meter rope gets you down just fine.



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By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Oct 15, 2010
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII E4 6a

This route is excellent and demands endurance and excellent route finding/rock reading skills. There are a couple of spots where the next bolt looks dangerously far away, but fear not, there is a bolt to be had that is closer, you just can't see it yet.

NOTE: THIS ROUTE REQUIRES 15 DRAWS + ANCHORS AND A 70M ROPE!!!!

By brian k sohn
From: knoxville, tn
Aug 18, 2012

Note, this route is not 12 pitches, as indicated. Also, if my 60m rope is cut a little long (I haven't measured it) the route is 110 ft at the most. If you lower with a 60m, you can climb down the poison-ivy covered tree to get down the last few feet.

By Danny Hupp
From: Nashville, TN
Mar 31, 2014

Absolutely classic line. First 30 feet are semi-technical corner climbing until you reach a big chossy ledge. From there it's an 80 foot jug haul with really good horizontal hand-jam rests. There are only a few hard-ish moves on the route, but the pump will catch up to you at the end if your endurance is lacking.