|Type:||Sport, 1 pitch, 90'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]|
|FA:||Porter Jarrard (1988)|
|Submitted By:||---- on Aug 22, 2011|
|Comments on Sacrilege||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Chris Whisenhunt
From: Fayetteville, WV
2 hours ago
The face climbing up to the crux of this route feels like something that was chiseled out by the hands of a god. While the crux is low percentage and hard as nails while doing it I found myself saying, "this move isn't that bad...". However I still couldn't do it the next go.
To add to Fred's description IMO this route consists of 3 distinct sections, 11+ face climbing to a low percentage v5/6 (depending on height), and then 11+ slab climbing that has some tenuous balance moves on slopers and sloping pinches. As of now in September this climb, and the entire wall for that matter, goes into the shade at 4PM. Any time before that and you might get hosed with the crux, (the sun kills any sense of vision while looking for the crux flake), and the sloping madness of the last 2 bolts.
I can't honestly describe how beautiful this route is. It seems to embody what endless wall is all about; technical face climbing with hard but rewarding moves. Go get on this thing!