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Sacrilege 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Porter Jarrard (1988)
Page Views: 486
Submitted By: ---- on Aug 22, 2011

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Description 

According to guidebook author Mike Williams, Sacrilege is said to have the "hardest 12b move you'll ever encounter." Its hard to disagree with him after experiencing the move.

Begin by stepping across from the large boulder to some small crimps. The first move is anything but trivial, but you'll soon be sauntering up engaging 5.11 face climbing. Its a good idea to stick clip the second bolt and leave the first unclipped so you don't slam your belayer against the wall when you inevitably fall at the crux.

I don't want to give too much away, but the crux is a desperate low angle move. Its best to wait until these holds are in the shade before tackling the crux. Keep your head together for the finish which consists of fun tenuous moves on slopers.

Location 

From the honeymoon ladders walk climbers left for a couple hundred feet until you pass the black and orange streaked Quinsans Plus. Just around the corner you will find the large boulder that you start on.

Protection 

8 bolts + anchor


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By Chris Whisenhunt
Administrator
From: Fayetteville, WV
Sep 22, 2014

The face climbing up to the crux of this route feels like something that was chiseled out by the hands of a god. While the crux is low percentage and hard as nails while doing it I found myself saying, "this move isn't that bad...". However I still couldn't do it the next go.

To add to Fred's description IMO this route consists of 3 distinct sections, 11+ face climbing to a low percentage v5/6 (depending on height), and then 11+ slab climbing that has some tenuous balance moves on slopers and sloping pinches. As of now in September this climb, and the entire wall for that matter, goes into the shade at 4PM. Any time before that and you might get hosed with the crux, (the sun kills any sense of vision while looking for the crux flake), and the sloping madness of the last 2 bolts.

I can't honestly describe how beautiful this route is. It seems to embody what endless wall is all about; technical face climbing with hard but rewarding moves. Go get on this thing!