|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches, 110'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]|
|FA:||R. Eberhard, Roger Parkyn|
|Submitted By:||Monomaniac on May 16, 2007|
|Comments on Sacred Site||Add Comment|
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By Jordy Cox
Nov 5, 2011
Great route in an incredible location.
5***** for sure.
Well worth the 2 hour approach (never mind the tiger snake on the trail). Perfect alternative to the Totem Pole: easier route, shorter approach and no tyrolean or fixed ropes necessary: a plus for overseas travellers.
Did the route on 10/18/2011.
5.9+/10a but well protected.
No need for carrot hangers: 2 bolts on route with hangers: The first looks marginal but with a good #2 cam placement right below it. The second one is solid.
The rap anchors are in great shape.
Easy rap to the ground with a single 60m.
The final bit of the approach requires some raps of course: 1st set is off a bolted anchor. After that you are raping of trees. Bring slings and retrieve them on the way out.
Climbing out is not trivial: one 4th class grovel off the ground and through bushes, followed by a short 5.6 chimney and finally a solid 5.8 back up to the first rap anchor (a #3 cam is nice on this one- you don't need it on the actual Moai, though).