Sacred Datura Direct  5.9 PG13

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet Consensus:  5.9 [details] FA:  (Original) Larry Treiber, Barbara Zinn, 1974 (Direct) Jim Waugh, John Ficker, 1980 Season:  any Submitted By:  Tony B on Mar 16, 2006 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Sacred Datura Direct (5.9). That's Succubus (10a) ...

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Access: MORE INFO >>> For the moment, access to this area by climbers should be from a temporary trailhead/parking area that is located near the old Morrell's Wall Parking Lot area. From there, the new Tom's Thumb Trail leads up toward Morrells Wall, Gardeners Wall and on to Tom's Thumb. Please look for, and use designated climber access trails. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

The mental crux of this climb is reaching the first bolt. A slabby start with small holds leads up and right for several meters to that point, from which you traverse right to access a good crack. Climb that crack to the top of the rock on good locks and good pro.

Location 

This route in on the North Face of Tom's Thumb. It is found by going just left of a right-facing dihedral that turns into a right-leaning roof 6 meters up (this is the climb 'Sucubus' a 5.10a). The crack that is accessed via face climbing is continuous with the initial start of Sucubus were you to skip the roof to the right.

Protection 

A set of nuts a few smaller cams and some slings. A bolt down low is good protection just as the distance from the dirt would be too dangerous.