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Tom's Thumb
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Sacred Datura Direct 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: (Original) Larry Treiber, Barbara Zinn, 1974 (Direct) Jim Waugh, John Ficker, 1980
Season: any
Page Views: 893
Submitted By: Tony B on Mar 16, 2006

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BETA PHOTO: Sacred Datura Direct (5.9). That's Succubus (10a) ...

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Description 

The mental crux of this climb is reaching the first bolt. A slabby start with small holds leads up and right for several meters to that point, from which you traverse right to access a good crack. Climb that crack to the top of the rock on good locks and good pro.

Location 

This route in on the North Face of Tom's Thumb. It is found by going just left of a right-facing dihedral that turns into a right-leaning roof 6 meters up (this is the climb 'Sucubus' a 5.10a). The crack that is accessed via face climbing is continuous with the initial start of Sucubus were you to skip the roof to the right.

Protection 

A set of nuts a few smaller cams and some slings. A bolt down low is good protection just as the distance from the dirt would be too dangerous.


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By arjunmh
From: Phoenix, AZ
Feb 19, 2012

Found the climbing to the first bolt to be easy and there are a couple good placements to protect. Crux for me was exiting the alcove (with an amazing 2-foot mound of guano in it) by stemming and getting up into the thin crack above. The mental crux was the extreme runout between thin gear for the top 50 odd feet or so. A couple bolts would help (I think the hanger from the original is now gone)!
By Tradoholic
Dec 1, 2012

Starting on Succubus into this must be the non-direct?
By KevinD
From: Scottsdale, AZ
Nov 19, 2013

Exiting the alcove/cave in the middle is the crux and feels insecure. The run out at the top is on easy ground. Small offset nuts were useful at the start.