|By Nathan Marsh|
From: st. george utah
Feb 6, 2013
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
I climbed this in 1/13. A few notes about this route. 1st. There are no longer 2 anchor bolts uptop. one of them is removed. You can easily make an anchor with the remaining bolt and then put some pro in the crack. However you would have to rap off of a single bolt once you clean the route or leave a piece. I personally climbed to the left and up onto the 5.11c route to the left. they are very close and it was quite easy to get to it. I then rapped from the chains on the 5.11c route. The space between the two routes is easy climbing, but dirty, big blocks came off. This route has a weird blocky start before you get to the main crack, and then a really fun roof move followed by easy crack climbing uptop. While the roof crack was a blast, it may not be worth the time for the rest of the route.