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 ADVANCED
Sacred Cow Wall
Routes Sorted
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Cowch Potato T 
Deal With It T 
Fatted Calf T 
Karin's Corner T 
Milk Box, The T 
Sacred Cow T 
Sample the Sausage T 
Steve Carruthers Memorial T 
Styminger, The T 
Surf and Turf T,S 
Twin Cam T 
Unknown Route T 
Vegetarian Corner T 

Sacred Cow 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Steve Hong, I assume
Season: shady in the morning, sun
Page Views: 3,413
Submitted By: camhead on Nov 27, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Sam about to head into the ringlocks.

Description 

This is an awesome changing corner to splitter; in the same aesthetic league as Broken Brain or The Optimator. The plaque at the base gives it a 13a, which it would be if you have really big hands. For us average hands folk, I believe it is around 12c for endurance. Even more so than most Indian Creek routes, there are really no hard moves on this route.

(more detailed beta) The route pretty much goes like this: big fingers in shallow stem-box, then perfect hands in a left-facing corner through a small roof, then a jug rest below a very strenuous tight hands changing corners roof. This may be the technical crux of the route. This puts you below an awesome headwall and its slightly offset, forty-foot ringlocks splitter (wide green camalots, maybe tight 2 friends at places). This is the endurance crux. If you have small hands, this may be a thin hands section, but either way, it is still very enduro. Gun it for the salvation hand jam, and the anchors 15 feet above that. WOO!

Location 

maybe 100 yards to the left, and around a prow from the Fatted Calf/SC Memorial area.

Protection 

FRIENDS SIZES -- (2) #1, (6) #1.5, (7) #2, (3) #3. Green camalots seemed to work the best in the headwall, and were almost a bit tipped out. So 1.5 friends may be too small, but 2 friends were definitely a little big.


Photos of Sacred Cow Slideshow Add Photo
"Sam from Durango" in the headwall
"Sam from Durango" in the headwall

Comments on Sacred Cow Add Comment
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By Michael Sokoloff
From: Spokane, WA
Aug 21, 2007

Having a couple Omega Linkcams solves the problem of finding the right cam size to fit in the headwall fingerstacking splitter. If you have them, save them for the top.
By d-know
From: electric lady land
Jan 19, 2008

black metolious cams fit perfect in
the headwall splitter.
By Harold
From: Bayfield, CO
Nov 7, 2008

That black metolius size is getting into thin hands for some. I bet this would feel wicked easy if you had small hands.
By Becca Roseberry
Apr 12, 2010

This climb is all hand jamming and the upper headwall is thin-hands, #2 friends. 12a tops for the girls, maybe 12b if you're hands are bigger. Twin Cam just to the right is STOUT compared to Sacred Cow.
By Lizzy Trower
From: Stanford, CA
Mar 27, 2011

I was not psyched with the fit of .75 Camalots, I would have been much happier with more black metolius or #2 Friends for the upper headwall.
By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
Apr 2, 2014
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

There isn't a move of 5.12 on this route but you'll have a 5.12 pump by the time you get to the top of the headwall.