The following areas are closed to all visitor use to protect peregrine falcon aeries from March 1 until August 1 of each year or until the young falcons of the current year have fledged: Fifi Buttress Immediately west of Leaning Tower. Closure includes all routes on Fifi Buttress.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
One of the most classic pitches at its grade in all of Yosemite, Sacherer Cracker is a full value 120+ feet of stellar jamming and clean movement. Begin with a short wide section that leads to a small ledge (two bolts provide an optional belay here); step left to the splitter finger crack that widens gradually as you work your way toward the final, notorious wide section that guards the chains. Some find this section to be the route's crux, and many have used the chockstone at its beginning to bail, swearing to come back after they get more practice on the wide...
Continue up the scree trails along the SW base until you see this striking line - really can't miss it. If you reach the obvious left-facing dihedral of La Escuela, you've gone too far.
Doubles to 3". Most forego anything big for the top, as the chockstone and cam in the horizontal are bomber and the crack quickly gets wider than most cams can cover.
Two rope rappel to ground. A 60m will not make it.
The crux for me is the first +/- 50ft. off of the small ledge, as the crack goes from fingers to off-fingers to tight hands. When that first slammer hand jam finally goes in, I'm usually breathing hard and bleeding from at least one of my mitts, and always exhilarated.
Gets more and more classic with each repetition.
Absolutely no comparison in terms of burliness and difficulty between this and Moby Dick down the way.
By Brad G From: Yosemite and else where Sep 21, 2007
How is this route compared to the hallow flake pitch on the Salathe in terms of difficulty? I suck at offwidths and im planning on climbing the Salathe wall next year.
As an old Yosemite climber, I can testify: this route is the ultimate sandbag. Don't worry about the upper wide section. It's the thin hands that works you.
By TylerW From: Flagstaff, AZ Feb 12, 2010 rating: 5.10a6a18VI+E1 5a
One of the best single pitches of crack climbing I have ever done. I thought it was all hard - the fingers, hands and OW. Awesome awesome route.
By Bonesaw From: CA Apr 5, 2011 rating: 5.10b6a+19VII-E2 5b
I agree that this is the ultimate sandbag... great route. I felt the two crux sections were the off-fingers/thin hands and the OW at the top. Slinging the chockstone to protect the OW didn't seem feasible since there were many other small rocks and dirt surrounding it, making it very difficult to get a sling around it. I placed an old BD #3.5 just below the chockstone and ran it out to the chains.
Highly recommend continuing up The Slack for 2 or 3 more pitches (you can link the 5.4 chimney pitch and the 5.8 double cracks ptich with a 60m)... very adventurous and super cool climbing! You don't need anything bigger than a #3 for that. Need two ropes to rap off top of The Slack.
To the question above re. the Hollow Flake, my .02:
-I thought the HF had harder pure climbing. -The HF is rated 5.9, the top of SC is rated 5.8. -The HF is 70 ft (more?), SC wide less than 2 body lengths. -The HF is a wicked, frightening head game, the SC wide is not. Contrast pro at your feet (SC) w/ a long arc of rope hanging back to a pendulum point that feels like 20,000 leagues beneath and to the side of you... -You'll be just fine if you fall out of the SC wide; you won't be if you fall out of the HF.
By Evan Riley From: San Francisco, CA Mar 18, 2013
There is no chock stone in the OW up top anymore. Bring a 5 and/or 6 for the top or be comfortable running it 15ish feet in that OW.