Type: Trad, 280 ft (85 m), 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Pete Schoening
Page Views: 12,199 total · 55/month
Shared By: ScottH on Jan 31, 2006
Admins: Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters

You & This Route


167 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description Suggest change

First climbed in 1950, Saber begins from the far right side of Loggers ledge and reaches the top of Castle rock in 2 pitches. Look for a left angling ramp just to the right of a large, low roof. This is the start of Saber.

P1. Climb the left angling ramp to the base of a left facing dihedral. The rock in the dihedral has been polished to a slippery, disconcerting, mirror-like sheen. When you hit a diaganol crack heading up to the left follow it to Saber ledge. Belay from bolts. (~90 feet)

P2. A few easy moves (~5.5) on the left side of a wide chimney take you up onto emminently forgettable and blocky terrain. The climbing gets easier as you ascend, and I found myself on 4th or 3rd class terrain long before reaching the top of Castle rock (~190 feet).

I've stuck with the historical rating for this climb, which may be a bit of a sandbag-- a more realistic rating for the first pitch may be 5.6. Combined with the polished rock, this route is probably not the best choice for a fledgling trad leader. One star for history and for being an accesible moderate as well as a good place to booty gear, but I can't imagine wanting to do this twice.

Protection Suggest change

Wires to 4"

Photos

loading