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Castle Rock
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Saber 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 280', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Pete Schoening
Page Views: 3,463
Submitted By: ScottH on Jan 31, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (42)
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BETA PHOTO: Leading up the first pitch of Saber.

Seasonal Raptor Closure Update: Noontime and Midnight Rock now open MORE INFO >>>

Description 

First climbed in 1950, Saber begins from the far right side of Loggers ledge and reaches the top of Castle rock in 2 pitches. Look for a left angling ramp just to the right of a large, low roof. This is the start of Saber.

P1. Climb the left angling ramp to the base of a left facing dihedral. The rock in the dihedral has been polished to a slippery, disconcerting, mirror-like sheen. When you hit a diaganol crack heading up to the left follow it to Saber ledge. Belay from bolts. (~90 feet)

P2. A few easy moves (~5.5) on the left side of a wide chimney take you up onto emminently forgettable and blocky terrain. The climbing gets easier as you ascend, and I found myself on 4th or 3rd class terrain long before reaching the top of Castle rock (~190 feet).

I've stuck with the historical rating for this climb, which may be a bit of a sandbag-- a more realistic rating for the first pitch may be 5.6. Combined with the polished rock, this route is probably not the best choice for a fledgling trad leader. One star for history and for being an accesible moderate as well as a good place to booty gear, but I can't imagine wanting to do this twice.

Protection 

Wires to 4"


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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 9, 2014
By josh jubb
Sep 5, 2014

CONDITION REPORT 
Warning !!! Extremely Large loose block on the second pitch, 15 - 20 ft from the belay ledge. Seems like a great jug but wobbled when I weighted it. Would fatal if it fell on the belayer.
By Ray Birks
Apr 27, 2006

I agree that it's a bit of a sandbag. We started just to the right of the ramp and made a little traverse to get onto the ramp itself. The route moves left after the crack/ramp and traverses a bit until you get to a huge homemade anchor below the second pitch. We broke the second pitch into two pitches just to give others a chance to lead. You can walk off to the right and get back to your stuff.
By Blitzo
Sep 13, 2006

A fun easy route.
By chris t
From: cle elum,wa
Nov 6, 2007

Gotta appreciate those old petons for history sake! Worth the trip!
By Kevin Peter
Jul 24, 2012

As of July 23, 2012 beware of poison ivy on the second pitch deep in the large offwidth. It is easy to avoid and route your rope around it to the right. An enjoyable first trad multipich and one to take beginners on.
By CHopwood
From: Boise, ID
Sep 3, 2012

The direct start, up the crack, is way harder than 5.6. I didn't realize people traverse in from the right.
By Matias Francis
Aug 26, 2013

I did this route on aug25 2013.... just wanted to let you know about 3/4ths the way up the crack on the first pitch there is ahornets nest... which i encountered with a hornet sting....
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
May 8, 2014
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

In keeping with history this route was rated 5.3 originally. The direct start 20' down and left of original start was A2, then freed by Beckey/Tarver at 5.9. The upper pitch one variation that many people do by mistake was also originally considered 5.3, but is more likely 5.6 or even 5.7. It is the finger layback up the white calcite corner. Standard route veers left up face with zigzag and horizontal cracks that are not obvious from base of white inside corner.
By Quy
Jun 3, 2014
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13

This was my first trad lead and I thought it was pretty fun. Definitely stiff for the grade the way I did it, but it was a blast with some very committing moves. The start was an awesome boulder problem, maybe V1 or V2. You'll notice that in the picture that after the boulder problem I started going right and then back left into the crack system. I'm not sure if that's the exact location in the picture but as you're making your way up after the boulder problem, you'll get to a point where it starts becoming an overhang, sorta. I didn't feel comfortable going up that overhang (also unable to place pro at this point) and saw some good holds to the right. At the time, I felt like that was the best approach to the problem.

The route I did up Saber. There's an easier way according to my friend.
The route I did up Saber. There's an easier way according to my friend.


After talking to a friend who did the climb a year ago, he mentioned an easier way: starting right and traversing left to the zig zag crack line and then working your way up the horizontal cracks (pictured below). I haven't tried this way.

The easier way my friend described going up Saber.
The easier way my friend described going up Saber.


My partners and I turned the second pitch into 2 pitches. The 2nd part of the second pitch is definitely a scramble, but you'll want to place some gear nonetheless.

I hope the pictures help.
By Jon Nelson
Administrator
Jun 3, 2014

Nice photos Quy!

This was also one of my first trad climbs. Back then it was rated 5.4. I took a fall traversing in on a more difficult variation, and landed on the ramp that one was supposed to take...
By Ashort
Jul 9, 2014

Enjoyable route! I went straight up the corner, which is certainly harder than 5.5 but really fun and well protected.

If anyone finds a black master cam on the second pitch get it back to me and I'll buy you some beers!