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Saber Ridge
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Saber Ridge traverse, south to north 

Saber Ridge traverse, south to north 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 20 pitches, Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Scott Thelen (2008)
Page Views: 862
Submitted By: fossana on Jul 16, 2013
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The Prism and Saber ridge from the approach.

Description 

Being a ridge traverse there are many ways to go on some sections. Choose you own adventure. I found the most sustained part to be surmounting the first headwall.

In relation to something like Matthes, it's longer, more sustained and more exposed.


Location 

Start
Start as far down the lower angled slabs as you wish.

Descent
Scramble off to the west until you can drop down onto the talus field that puts you west of the Prism. There is also a trail descent down Elizabeth Pass, but it's longer. For this you'll have to head NE down the slabs and cross-country to the Elizabeth Pass trail.


Protection 

no fixed gear or anchors



Photos of Saber Ridge traverse, south to north Slideshow Add Photo
looking back to the south
looking back to the south
knife-edged fun
knife-edged fun
View of the second bump/headwall.  Looks harder than it is.
BETA PHOTO: View of the second bump/headwall. Looks harder th...
view to the east
view to the east
nearing the summit
nearing the summit
final push
final push
looking down the route
looking down the route
the options for the second "bump"
the options for the second "bump"
view east past one of the gendarmes
view east past one of the gendarmes
view of Mt Stewart and Tamarack Lake
view of Mt Stewart and Tamarack Lake
one of the easier bits
one of the easier bits
steep traversing the way I went for the first headwall
steep traversing the way I went for the first head...
Mt Stewart again
Mt Stewart again
route start and end
BETA PHOTO: route start and end
looking down the low-angled slab start
looking down the low-angled slab start
Glacier Ridge and Deadman Canyon
Glacier Ridge and Deadman Canyon
view to the south with the Prism on the right
view to the south with the Prism on the right
many options to surmount the first headwall
many options to surmount the first headwall
looking back at the Prism
looking back at the Prism
Saber Ridge from Tamarack Lake
Saber Ridge from Tamarack Lake
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