Sabbatical Wall  Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular Elevation:  6,000' Page Views:  3,539. Good page?    Administrators:  Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Tom Erickson Submitted By:  Tony B on Apr 21, 2008 Make this area a Favorite What's New   Print a Mini-Guide with routes Add Route  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event  Wed Thu Fri Sat Sun 86° | 54° 81° | 54° 81° | 57° 81° | 55° 81° | 55°

Dan Hughes climbing the splitter finger crack, Imm...

Description 

A shady wall until later morning to early afternoon. This primarily West-Facing Wall Lies just South of Way Rambo and Bioturbation Wall, and well North of Pistol Whipped. The wall can be identified by 3 "columns" up above on the summit cap, over the right end of the wall. Another notable feature is a left-leaning ramp at the far right side of the climbable area of this wall. The ramp goes from the base to within a few meters of the top of the wall and is climbable.

Good routes at this cliff include, 'Sabbatical (10+),' 'Bon Voyage (11+),' and others. Only about 1/2 of the routes we saw at this cliff were in the Bloom book (Vol 1) and there is plenty of opportunity for new routes here.

Of the existing routes, there are some which are tall (70M rope required, 2 ropes required, or outright multi-pitch) and there are routes some very short routes of decent quality for IC beginners, though none are terribly easy.

Some of the anchors on this cliff have been under-attended and the webbing has been poor. I replaced several of them, but please consider taking up camo-ed chain or webbing and rapid links to contribute to the maintenance of this area if you visit.

Getting There 

Turn off of the main highway through the Indian Creek Area onto Beef Basin Road and go 4.85 miles to the sharp left turn on Rd 1041 through 'The Cottonwoods' camping area, continuing across the sometimes high creek and past the camping to approach the East side of this sub-canyon, as for Way Rambo wall or Pistol Whipped. The road bends to the right and continues for some fraction f a mile to come to the base of a brown wall with a hog-back approach on it's right side. A large stacked Cairn at the road by a barely perceptible 'pull-off' is the start of the trail, which is reasonable defined, but loose in some areas. Approach for about 15-25 minutes depending on your fitness and number of cams in your pack. You will arrive at the wall near the base of a few short, un-named 10's and just right of the massive dihedral of the namesake route 'Sabbatical.

The Classics

Featured Route For Sabbatical Wall

Immaculate Conception 5.12  UT : Moab Area : ... : Sabbatical Wall

Wow! One of the best finger cracks in Indian Creek!Pitch 1: start behind a large pillar leaning against the wall, climb some loose rock up to a ledge with a single bolt belay.Pitch 2: Splitter Finger Crack (this is what you came for!), Starts out with .3 camalots to sustained .4 and .5 camalots, save a .3 camalot for the top.Clip the bolted anchors and check to see how much skin is left on your fingers. You can lower all the way to the ground with a 70m rope....[more]   Browse More Classics in UT