BETA PHOTO: Looking north east at Sa Gubia. From left to righ...
Description
Sa Gubia is home to more than 100 single and multi-pitch sport routes along with several single and multi-pitch trad routes. Ratings vary from easy 5.7 and 5.8 to staggeringly difficult 5.13s with the bulk of routes clocking in at between 5.10 and 5.12. The approach to the crag is the longest and least obvious of the places we visited, but is doable in 45 minutes or so from car door to cliff.
According to locals, there are regular break-ins to cars. Do not leave anything of value in your car. Leave your car with the glove compartment open and any shade over the cargo area of your vehicle removed to show that there is nothing worth stealing.
Getting There
From Palma drive North following signs to the town of Soller on MA-11. A few hundred yards after passing where MA-2010 splits off to Bunyola on your right, there is a large parking lot near a restaurant. Leave your car here, cross the street and walk back down the road in the direction you just came from. There is a small road that continues off almost perpendicular to MA-2010 that leads off past private residences to your right, follow this. After a few hundred yards the pavement will be replaced by a dirt road. After a quarter mile or so, there will be a house with stables on your left. Past the stables a dry creek bed crosses the dirt road. Turn right on the pebbly creek bed and follow it half a mile or more depending on which sub-area you plan on climbing at. There are frequent cairns to mark your way. The first left-hand forks will lead up to the Paret dels Coloms area, while right forks will lead to (from first to last) Sector Silicona, Sector Excalibur, Sector Isla Bonita, Sector Princesa, Sector Bomberos, Albahida and eventually Cara Oeste.
There is an alternate approach for Cara Oeste and Albahida, but I've never taken it. If anyone has and would like to submit directions, I'm happy to sign over control of this page or add their directions.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sa Gubia:
Viewed from a distance or, close up, the distinctive aręte of Albahida just begs to have a classic route on its steep, exposed spine of rock. And...it does! Bonus for modest climbers or those seeking an “escalade plaisir” day that the route is within the means of most abilities.Getting started: locate the base of the ridge. The lower angle ramp leading up to a green bushy stance is the first pitch.Pitch 1: scramble up the low angle ridge aiming for the enclosed ledge between bushes...[more]Browse More Classics in International
I wish we would have spent more time climbing here. I didn't realize what the area offered until it was to late. If you visit in the summer, start your day at Sector Sexo and move to Sector Paret dels Coloms when it goes into the shade. We never even hiked up to Sector Oeste, which is meant to be one of the most striking walls in Spain. Check this place out!
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