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This is one of the best face climbs around. Climbs up the middle of the wall right and below the Snakes Head. Climbing up 60 feet of 5.6 to the first bolt, then up to the mid anchor right in the middle of the signature Ess formation. Then step out and above the Ess (crux) and up, clip another bolt and work the run out 5.8 moves to the top. You can also link both pitches into one long one.
Look for the Ess formation in the middle of S-Wall. Up top, scramble up 5.5 moves to the right and over to the rap station off the head wall anchors (155'), watch for cacti on the Bourbon Street Ledge.
2 Bolts, 2 Bolt mid anchor, no anchor up top use 1.5" - 1.5" Cams or you can belay sitting on the secure horn. Might take some small cams for the upper crack, soothing to the nerves when people above shout to you, that your 40' above that last bolt.
BETA PHOTO: Your peice of mind on the second pitch of S-wall. ...
|By Neal Douglass|
From: Lubbock, TX
Apr 14, 2013
I'm not sure how a 200' climb with 3 points of protection equal a sport route. Just because its bolted does not mean its sport. That's a hell of a run-out not a traditional sport route... but it is a traditional route.
Aug 11, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a R
One of the all-time greatest slab routes. Realistically this should be R/X not R as in theory you could be quite badly hurt were you to screw up clipping the first bolt. Incredibly fun. Best to do when the route isn't in the sun of course as this is straight-up friction climbing.
|By Craig Childre|
From: Lubbock, Texas
Sep 25, 2013
S-Wall is IMHO, one of the signature routes at Quartz. It embodies all the best qualities climbing here represents. The lower run out seems wild, but the climbing is 5.3-5.5ish, and shouldn't be an issue. The business of the climb is well protected and a stout 5.9. If you can complete the crux, the run out moves above it should be easy. RX is best left too the likes of Big Bite... which has 40' run out to 5.10 friction moves. A true Quartz Classic.