Elevation: | 2,932 ft | 894 m |
GPS: |
44.37053, -121.14363 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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Page Views: | 371,310 total · 1,621/month | |
Shared By: | Karsten Duncan on Jan 27, 2006 · Updates | |
Admins: | Kevin Piarulli, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball |
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Description
This prominent tower is one the best known features at Smith rock. Its aesthetic beauty is enhanced by the historical ascents and world famous routes on its clean faces. Monkey face still holds some of the hardest climbs in the world as well as a plethora of classic trad and sport lines. Its most famous route, Just Do It 5.14c is still a testpiece route for aspiring hardmen/women.
Other popular pastimes include making the tyrolean traverse from the main buttress to the monkey's mouth. This airy span is also often used for a spectacular high line walk.
Getting There
To approach you can take the hiking trail in either direction once you cross the bridge. Heading north provides a steeper but shorter approach. The seldom taken southward, scenic approach is much further but has less elevation gain and takes you all the way around the formation. Many approach by hiking past the main dihedrals, doing the scramble over asterik pass, and continuing on climbing trails heading north. Routes are listed clockwise from right side of the west face.
To descend sramble down or take a short rappel from summit back to SE to a ledge and huge boulder. From here there are a few options:
1. Take the stunning and free hanging 2 full 60m rope rappel from the nose boulder to the talus below. This is the highlight of the route for many and allows you to also contemplate the insane difficulty of Just Do It.
2. Do a short single rope rap back to the cave. Then, take the tyrolean traverse back to the main buttress. (Requires that you fixed a second rope and rapped in from main buttress onto first pitch, trailed rope up to the cave, and know how to actually do a tyrolean (beyond the scope of this description).
3. Rap the pioneer route. This is not recommended but possible with a single 60m. This requires difficult rope pulling, tensioning to reach anchors, and annoying all the other parties inevitably behind you. Reserve for emergencies.
Classic Climbing Routes at Monkey Face
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