|8,080 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, 7 pitches, 800 feet, Grade III|
|Consensus: ||5.9+ [details]|
|FA: ||George and Jeff Lowe, 1967 (S-Direct), Variation by M.Bitter and friends.|
|Submitted By: ||Mark Michaels on May 8, 2004|
Climb S-Crack, or Standard Thumb/Indecent Exposure to the Lunch Ledge.
S-Direct tackles the smooth slab left of the Standard Thumb "Trough" pitch. Continue four pitches above Lunch Ledge, unrope, and then hike over the back, or rappel the route.
I did this route about 8 years ago, and remember it as serious...but not crazy runout. Something has changed in 8 years, however. OK, I'll admit to gaining a few...ok, a dozen...OK, TWENTY(!) pounds since my first time on this route. But I can still hike most 9's in the canyon, like the Coffin, Sasquatch, and Green Adjective.
So something else is missing...a bolt! The topo and route description for this route (in three different guidebooks) all describe the crux pitch (the second pitch on the slab) as having three bolts...and then a runout to the belay. Well, I got about 20 feet above the second bolt and couldn't even SEE the third one.
The climbing to that point was easily 9+, and a little gritty...I tried for about 20 minutes to find the route upward, but decided to back off. I SLOWLY downclimbed to the second bolt, traversed back left to the first bolt, and tried the more direct variation (S-Direct's original line is somewhat indirect). Still healthy runouts, but fun climbing that links chickenheads on less gritty rock.
From the third bolt on the direct var., I could not see another bolt to my right on the original route as shown on the topo, where I remember from my previous ascent. I belayed at a small overlap, where you can get small but good cams, and sling a giant chickenhead just to the right. Pulling over this overlap, the climbing gets easier, though still runout.
The anchor shown on the topo for the crux pitch is BAD - 2 quarter inchers.
One LONG pitch above the overlap will reach easy ground.
All in all, we enjoyed S-Direct (direct variation) tremendously. I would give the variation one R, and the original route 2 R's. Timid climbers and good samaritans: still some manky and missing bolts up there to replace!
One last note: The walkoff still sucks. I vote for a zipline from the summit of the Thumb to the Gate boulders.
Standard Rack to climb one of the routes to Lunch Ledge....then just a few draws on the S-Direct Slap...and some slings to tie off knobs!
Climbers on the third pitch out on a sea of granit...
Ryan about to get a glimpse of the "Sea of endless...
Bob casually cruising and posing for photos on the...
The Ogden belay
Shayne Durfee leading S direct.
sea of granite
BETA PHOTO: steep... and run-out
|By Mark Michaels|
From: Draper, UT
May 22, 2004
Photo by John Glime is me starting the crux pitch, with Vicente Planelles on belay.
|By Nathan Fisher|
Aug 23, 2004
The bolts on the pitch in question are there. Bolt 1 is above the anchors, bolt 2 is long traverse right, bolt 3 is another 30+ feet up (1/4'er), and bolt 4 now exists. A new 3/8" next to an old 1/4'er. From this point we wandered left to the overlap with gear placement above the Variation. Those (1/4 inch) anchors were not what my partner and I deemed safe, so we traversed back right to Nob Job's anchors. Twin ropes are imperative on this route. We also did not do the final pitch. This allows you to exit more gracefully. 2-rope raps from Nob Jobs anchors twice, then from the Lunch Ledge.
Feb 26, 2006
The always perfect wordsmith styling of the Ruckman guide sez it all..."bold elegance on a sea of white granite". Very fine route. I think the variation straight up after the crux is a better line. Bold and memorable.
|By James Garrett|
Jul 10, 2006
It is now possible to climb all the way to the summit block of the Thumb and rappel down to the
Thumb gully via the Matrix and NobJob (may be easier pulls and more direct)....albeit with two ropes!
From: Smog Lake City, Utah
Aug 25, 2007
rating: 5.9+ R
When we climbed this in fall 2005 I swear the bolts must have been replaced (if so- many, many, thanks). I'm sure I would have crapped my pants climbing this with 1/4"ers. Much praise to whomever replaced the bolts and saved my skids.
From: Small Lake, UT
Oct 6, 2009
rating: 5.9+ R
The 3rd bolt on P2 is still a button-head, looks solid but made me feel a bit queasy. Kinda strange since all the other bolts have been updated.
I clipped everything with a shoulder-length runner + long draw and rope drag was non-existent.
On my first trip up there I clipped the 3rd bolt and traversed up and left to the overlaps instead of going up to the 4th bolt. It was pretty mellow as the slab gets more featured and there's gear/chickenheads to sling. This time I went straight up to the 4th bolt (stout) then traversed left to the anchor and if felt considerably harder and more runout. I placed a nest of really poor micros in a flake halfway between the bolt and the anchor and was puckered until I grabbed the chain.
I still feel like the first slab pitch is the crux though...
|By Tim Wolfe|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 28, 2010
rating: 5.9+ R
Stunning. This is THE CLASSIC slab route at this grade in Little Cottonwood. Do not miss this route.
|By Stan Pitcher|
From: SLC, UT
Oct 22, 2010
ya Tim it is! Time to go back and do this beauty again- tis the season!
My favorite way is to start with a Standard/Indecent Exposure until its possible to work right to the 5.8 groove pitch of S-Crack. This is a fantastic pitch and doesn't require doubles of anything if I remember correctly. And I definitely agree with Tea that the direct variation after the crux is the way to go unless you enjoy combining your slab run outs with rope drag!
Jun 11, 2011
Replaced 3 bolts at the belays and the last 1/4 inch lead bolt(now a Big Fatty 1/2") today.
From: SLC, UT
Jun 22, 2011
Thanks for putting in those new bolts. This is an amazing route and I agree the direct second pitch is well worth it.
|By Landon McBrayer|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 29, 2012
A few commets about the "description" given here.
1. all the bolts are present; most of them are new-ish.
2. All the belays have bomber rap-ready bolts.
3. Don't make a belay in one of the overlaps on pitch 3. The chains are just above the final (third) overlap.
4. Take a handful of cams (fingers to tight hands) for the overlaps on P3.
5. The route can be rappelled with a 70m, as follows: from the top of the 5.8 squeeze finish in the big roof (set of chains) to the top of P3; from the top of P3 to the top of P2; from the top of P2 to Lunch Ledge. Walk down lunch ledge to the chains atop Indecent Exposure; from there, three more straightforward raps to the dirt.