Any recommended routes to warm up on before I try S-direct? I hear it's run out and one should be solid at the grade before you head up it. Final Link on Crescent Crack buttress seems to be right up that alley. Anything else?
Final link is good, Kermits Wad, Barefoot in Barbados, Pebbles and BamBam/Date with Fate, The 2nd pitch of Mind Blow is great crystal pinching with well spaced bolts, Western Brebe->Fools Paradise->Dark of the Moon.
All of those involve at least 1 descent pure slabbing zone if not more. Try and throw a rope down some of the more difficult slabs in the area if you have a chance as well like Punany at kermits wall or Prepositional Phrase at the Green A. Another great slab to work on technique is Cheetah which is able to by tr'd with a single 70m from the top of Tingey's 2nd pitch.
Thanks for the recommends Greg. Headed up the canyon today and maybe get on sdirect later this week if time permits. Dallin , about that profile, ha ha. not climbing much these days so am more conservative when its run out. The thing about lcc is that I can go scare the crap out of myself on a 5.9 slab, and then head over to bcc and onsite all the 11's at the lower s curves. I have even had quite a lot of slab experience all over the west too but the inconsistencies with grades around here makes me more conservative.
Thanks guys. Climbed Final Link today and loved it. It definitely felt spooky at first but after you get into the rhythm of it the climbing isn't bad. I was looking at the recommendations you guys put out there and think I climbed Ape Index a month or so ago, but I believe bolts were added, unless it is a new line not listed. Good slab climbing. I think S-direct will be doable for us.