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S-direct warm ups?
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By earl mcalister
From idaho
Oct 18, 2012
me

Any recommended routes to warm up on before I try S-direct? I hear it's run out and one should be solid at the grade before you head up it. Final Link on Crescent Crack buttress seems to be right up that alley. Anything else?


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By Greg G
From SLC, UT
Oct 19, 2012
The route in it's entirety.

Final link is good, Kermits Wad, Barefoot in Barbados, Pebbles and BamBam/Date with Fate, The 2nd pitch of Mind Blow is great crystal pinching with well spaced bolts, Western Brebe->Fools Paradise->Dark of the Moon.

All of those involve at least 1 descent pure slabbing zone if not more. Try and throw a rope down some of the more difficult slabs in the area if you have a chance as well like Punany at kermits wall or Prepositional Phrase at the Green A. Another great slab to work on technique is Cheetah which is able to by tr'd with a single 70m from the top of Tingey's 2nd pitch.


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By DallinH
From Utah
Oct 19, 2012

If you climb as hard as your profile says, you should be fine. Even without the slab technique down.


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By earl mcalister
From idaho
Oct 19, 2012
me

Thanks for the recommends Greg. Headed up the canyon today and maybe get on sdirect later this week if time permits. Dallin , about that profile, ha ha. not climbing much these days so am more conservative when its run out. The thing about lcc is that I can go scare the crap out of myself on a 5.9 slab, and then head over to bcc and onsite all the 11's at the lower s curves. I have even had quite a lot of slab experience all over the west too but the inconsistencies with grades around here makes me more conservative.


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By Brian in SLC
Oct 19, 2012
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch

If you're super comfy on the Hook, then...that'd be good.

Final Link would be a good one. Different climbing, but, some milage on the Viewing wouldn't hurt. Huevos Rancheros to get your run out on. Leggo my Eggo.

Rivers Edge to hone that thin face confidence...


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By tenesmus
Oct 19, 2012

Go send the boulder problem at the Riverside called Feck. S-Direct will be easy.

I also like the stuff up in Altered States because you can tr some of the harder stuff. Mostly though, its a head game. Do Feck and the Riverside Arete and you'll be fine.


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By Boissal
From Small Lake, UT
Oct 19, 2012

tenesmus wrote:
Go send the boulder problem at the Riverside called Feck.

Sending Feck would make S-direct feel 4th class... Probably ruin the experience making every dish feel like a ledge.

All recommendations above are good. I'd add the slabzzz at Lizard Head, tad harder but better protected. There's not much you can do to prep for the runouts on S-Direct anyway...

Also, how could you guys forget the best slab linkup in the canyon, River's Edge to Daddy Long Legs to Evening Falls! Brian was almost onto something there...


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By earl mcalister
From idaho
Oct 20, 2012
me

Thanks guys. Climbed Final Link today and loved it. It definitely felt spooky at first but after you get into the rhythm of it the climbing isn't bad. I was looking at the recommendations you guys put out there and think I climbed Ape Index a month or so ago, but I believe bolts were added, unless it is a new line not listed. Good slab climbing. I think S-direct will be doable for us.


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By Daniel Winder
Oct 20, 2012

Prune Face


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