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S-direct warm ups?
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Oct 18, 2012
me
Any recommended routes to warm up on before I try S-direct? I hear it's run out and one should be solid at the grade before you head up it. Final Link on Crescent Crack buttress seems to be right up that alley. Anything else? earl mcalister
From idaho
Joined Aug 11, 2010
46 points
Oct 19, 2012
The route in it's entirety.
Final link is good, Kermits Wad, Barefoot in Barbados, Pebbles and BamBam/Date with Fate, The 2nd pitch of Mind Blow is great crystal pinching with well spaced bolts, Western Brebe->Fools Paradise->Dark of the Moon.

All of those involve at least 1 descent pure slabbing zone if not more. Try and throw a rope down some of the more difficult slabs in the area if you have a chance as well like Punany at kermits wall or Prepositional Phrase at the Green A. Another great slab to work on technique is Cheetah which is able to by tr'd with a single 70m from the top of Tingey's 2nd pitch.
Greg G
From SLC, UT
Joined Oct 3, 2008
563 points
Oct 19, 2012
If you climb as hard as your profile says, you should be fine. Even without the slab technique down. DallinH
From Utah
Joined Jan 25, 2012
7 points
Oct 19, 2012
me
Thanks for the recommends Greg. Headed up the canyon today and maybe get on sdirect later this week if time permits. Dallin , about that profile, ha ha. not climbing much these days so am more conservative when its run out. The thing about lcc is that I can go scare the crap out of myself on a 5.9 slab, and then head over to bcc and onsite all the 11's at the lower s curves. I have even had quite a lot of slab experience all over the west too but the inconsistencies with grades around here makes me more conservative. earl mcalister
From idaho
Joined Aug 11, 2010
46 points
Oct 19, 2012
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch
If you're super comfy on the Hook, then...that'd be good.

Final Link would be a good one. Different climbing, but, some milage on the Viewing wouldn't hurt. Huevos Rancheros to get your run out on. Leggo my Eggo.

Rivers Edge to hone that thin face confidence...
Brian in SLC
Joined Oct 6, 2003
10,997 points
Oct 19, 2012
Go send the boulder problem at the Riverside called Feck. S-Direct will be easy.

I also like the stuff up in Altered States because you can tr some of the harder stuff. Mostly though, its a head game. Do Feck and the Riverside Arete and you'll be fine.
tenesmus
Joined Jan 7, 2004
2,614 points
Oct 19, 2012
tenesmus wrote:
Go send the boulder problem at the Riverside called Feck.

Sending Feck would make S-direct feel 4th class... Probably ruin the experience making every dish feel like a ledge.

All recommendations above are good. I'd add the slabzzz at Lizard Head, tad harder but better protected. There's not much you can do to prep for the runouts on S-Direct anyway...

Also, how could you guys forget the best slab linkup in the canyon, River's Edge to Daddy Long Legs to Evening Falls! Brian was almost onto something there...
Boissal
From Small Lake, UT
Joined Aug 21, 2006
1,664 points
Oct 20, 2012
me
Thanks guys. Climbed Final Link today and loved it. It definitely felt spooky at first but after you get into the rhythm of it the climbing isn't bad. I was looking at the recommendations you guys put out there and think I climbed Ape Index a month or so ago, but I believe bolts were added, unless it is a new line not listed. Good slab climbing. I think S-direct will be doable for us. earl mcalister
From idaho
Joined Aug 11, 2010
46 points
 
Oct 20, 2012
Prune Face Daniel Winder
Joined Jul 13, 2009
109 points


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