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S-Direct, Variation 
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S-Direct, Variation 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a R

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 130'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 887
Submitted By: Mark Michaels on Jan 1, 2005
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At the 2nd belay station from S-Direct, head straight up. Still healthy runouts, but fun climbing linking chickenheads on less gritty rock. From the third bolt on the direct var., I could not see another bolt to my right on the original route as shown on the topo, where I remember from my previous ascent. I belayed at a small overlap, where you can get small but good cams, and sling a giant chickenhead just to the right. Pulling over this overlap, the climbing gets easier, though still runout. The anchor shown on the topo for the crux pitch is BAD - 2 quater inchers. One LONG pitch above the overlap will reach easy ground.

All in all, we enjoyed S-Direct (direct variation) tremendously. I would give the Variation one R, and the Original route 2 R's. Timid climbers and Good samaritans: still some manky and missing bolts up there to replace!One last note: the walkoff still sucks. I vote for a zipline from the summit of the Thumb to the Gate boulders.


Draws and a small selection of gear.

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By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 28, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c R

This is a nice finish to the prior two pitches. I suggest you rappel from the top of this pitch since the walk off is a bit long and the rappel is fast and safe.