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Cabin Wall
Routes Sorted
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Aunt Jemima's Hand Stack T 
Better Left Undone T 
Cowboy Justice T 
Four-Wheel Low T 
Fred and Barney's Crack T 
Junk Corner T 
Left Horseshoe Finger T 
Left-facing Corner (unknown) T 
Pair a'grins aka Unknown Roof/Corner T 
Passion for Pumping aka Corner Pump Station T 
Rednekk Justus T 
Right Horseshoe Finger T 
Rusty's Cave aka Corner/Cupped hands to OW (unknown) T 
S Crack T 
TH Crack T 
Three Blocks T 
Twenty Too Short T 
Unknown Awkward T 
Unknown Finger Crack T 
Unknown Fingers T 
Unknown Flake T 
Willy's Hand Jive T 

S Crack 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Jimmy Dunn & Jim Newberry, 1978
Page Views: 7,425
Submitted By: Jesse Zacher on Sep 2, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (39)
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Matt Follows the bends on S Crack.

Description 

One of the best! This splitter, curving crack that starts off with some left-leaning finger section and just gets bigger from there. Bust the chicken wings out for the top.

Location 

This is past Redneck Justice and on a right-facing face. It is hard to miss. Soo aesthetic!!

Protection 

A few thin pieces all the way up to a #5. Only one of each probably.


Photos of S Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Matt doin' his thing.
Matt doin' his thing.
Mmmmmm.... good.
Mmmmmm.... good.
S-Crack.
BETA PHOTO: S-Crack.

Comments on S Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
By Allen Hill
From: FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
May 2, 2008

The Jim's put no anchors in and they apparently down climbed it. At least that's what the legend is and when asked, Jimmy Dunn always changes the conversation to "I can't remember." I seem to remember Kenny Sims was somehow involved with this little route... who knows and it's better that way. Regardless of the suspect history of the route it's a fun climb.
By slim
Administrator
Apr 1, 2010
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

A good friend of mine asked Jimmy Dunn about it, and Jimmy said that he had never climbed in Escalante(?).
By Jason Kaplan
From: Glenwood ,Co
Oct 11, 2010

I don't understand it, my partner red pointed Passion for Pumping which is 11+, and I flashed it with no gear to clean on TR. Then we went over and got on this, and he took a fall leading it. I fell 2 or 3 times in the same spot on TR, then had to hang in the last bit of the OW (pants!). I guess it could have been because we were so tired after all we got on a 9, 10, 10+, 11, and an 11+ the day prior. Pretty freaking hard either way.
By slim
Administrator
Oct 12, 2010
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

That IS pretty crazy. For me, Passion is infinitely harder than S Crack.
By martinharris
From: Glenwood Springs CO
Oct 31, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

My buddy got on this thing and said it climbs really hard, but he is comfy on the OW. I think the thin lower part spanked him.
By martinharris
From: Glenwood Springs CO
Mar 2, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Can I just say that Rednekk is wayyyyy harder than S Crack.
By Mitch Musci
Oct 13, 2012

I suggest NOT taping for this pitch, as the crux sequence down low involves some reachy moves with bad feet in a tight #1 Camalot-sized crack (my nemesis). Definitely bring 2 #4 Camalots as well as a #5. This pitch has some of the best rock in all of Escalante!