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 ADVANCED
Torture Chamber
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Crack in Groove T,TR 
Cracky Face TR 
Dos Gorditos T,TR 
Final Finger TR 
Gracie's Dihedral T,TR 
Left of Roof -- Three Variations 
Nemesis Northeast Face TR 
Roofus, The T,S,TR 
S-Crack TR 
Sagas 50 T,TR 
Some boulder problem with a crack 
Torture Chamber Traverse 
Tree Roof TR 
Unnamed 5.9 T,TR 
West Crack TR 
West Flake TR 
WTF T 

S-Crack 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,339
Submitted By: Jimn Seiler on Jun 11, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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BETA PHOTO: Lower Torture Chamber routes.

Description 

There are two cruxes, one at the bottom and one at the top. This is one of my favorite climbs at the Torture Chamber.


Location 

This is a great crack shaped like an S at the far bottom of The Torture Chamber.


Protection 

Cams come in real handy to toprope this climb.



Photos of S-Crack Slideshow Add Photo
S-Crack, 4/5/2011.
BETA PHOTO: S-Crack, 4/5/2011.
Jimn on the S-Crack.
Jimn on the S-Crack.
Chris on the S-Crack.
Chris on the S-Crack.
Comments on S-Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
By Aaron Martinuzzi
Aug 27, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13

This is a sustained little crack problem - those rating it in the 9/10easy range might be confusing it with Final Finger, which seems to have the "curvy shape" described in Horan's guide, but is in fact about 35 feet left of S-Crack. SC is a broken seam just left of a dark corner (corner - 5.10b/c) with a distinct dogleg right about halfway up.

Additionally, TRing this problem definitely robs the climber of several good moves - topping out requires a committing toss to the lip of the ridge before any decent feet can be found to facilitate mantling. This probably also contributes to the difficulty factor. This climb is easily a full number grade more difficult than either Final Finger or Cracky Face. As a trad lead, this climb definitely deserves a PG-13/R-, as the only good pro available would be placed in handholds.

By Drew Hallett
From: Fort Collins, Colorado
Oct 22, 2013
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

While the pro is in several handholds, I do not feel that that warrants this climb PG-13/R. It protects quite well and does not hinder stability on the rock very much at all IMO.