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Torture Chamber
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S-Crack 
Some boulder problem with a crack 
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WTF 

S-Crack 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,209
Submitted By: Jimn Seiler on Jun 11, 2004
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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BETA PHOTO: S-Crack, 4/5/2011.

Description 

There are two cruxes, one at the bottom and one at the top. This is one of my favorite climbs at the Torture Chamber.


Location 

This is a great crack shaped like an S at the far bottom of The Torture Chamber.


Protection 

Cams come in real handy to toprope this climb.



Photos of S-Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Jimn on the S-Crack.
Jimn on the S-Crack.
Chris on the S-Crack.
Chris on the S-Crack.
Comments on S-Crack Add Comment
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By Aaron Martinuzzi
Aug 27, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b PG13

This is a sustained little crack problem - those rating it in the 9/10easy range might be confusing it with Final Finger, which seems to have the "curvy shape" described in Horan's guide, but is in fact about 35 feet left of S-Crack. SC is a broken seam just left of a dark corner (corner - 5.10b/c) with a distinct dogleg right about halfway up.

Additionally, TRing this problem definitely robs the climber of several good moves - topping out requires a committing toss to the lip of the ridge before any decent feet can be found to facilitate mantling. This probably also contributes to the difficulty factor. This climb is easily a full number grade more difficult than either Final Finger or Cracky Face. As a trad lead, this climb definitely deserves a PG-13/R-, as the only good pro available would be placed in handholds.

By Drew Hallett
Oct 22, 2013
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

While the pro is in several handholds, I do not feel that that warrants this climb PG-13/R. It protects quite well and does not hinder stability on the rock very much at all IMO.