S Buttress Direct
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This route starts behind the big dead tree trunk at the same start as Crash Test Blondes. Power over the bulge and head straight up the crack system on the face between Pup and Crash Test. The crux is encountered leaving the thin crack as it peters out and getting to the horizontal break below the first roof.
Move left under the roof, fire up the left side,then work up the corner. You can continue up this same corner system shared by upper S Buttress and Pup, or for a more interesting variation, step right as soon as possible after passing the first roof and climb up and around the next roof feature. Head up to the last roof, passing it on the left, and head up the right-facing corner to the anchors.
This climb is fairly steep with occasionally wild moves throughout. The gear is generally abundant although not always obvious, and occasionally tricky to place from balancy stances.
Standard rack with cams up to a #3 Camalot. Doubles in the smaller sizes (Aliens blue to yellow) may be useful. There are opportunities to stretch over and clip bolts from adjacent routes, although that's not necessary nor recommended. Rap from the 2-bolt anchor at the top of Pup.
|Comments on S Buttress Direct
|By Tom Hayes|
Aug 2, 2005
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b
I went back and led this with Steve last week and I must say this is a quality 5.10 trad route. A nice addition as there are not many at this grade in the area. Clipping the 1st bolt of "Crash Test" is a good way to avoid any danger from falling on the tree at the start, but the rest of the route goes nicely with gear.