Ryan's Song  5.10

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Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet Consensus:  5.10 [details] FA:  L Paik? Season:  ideally not when hailing or raining Submitted By:  Leo Paik on Jul 7, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Ryan's Song.

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Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>> The following areas are closed from March 1-July 31 or until further notice: Twin Owls, Rock One, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sheep Mountain, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Lightning Rock and Checkerboard Rock are currently closed. The closures include the named rock formations and the areas extending 100 yards surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes and climber's access trails to the formation. Alligator Rock is also closed. www.nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/area_closures.htm This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This route is named in memory of Ryan Keller (son of a good friend), who died much too young in a tragic car accident a few years back. This route is aesthetic, elegant, inspiring, but it ends far too quickly. It took a while to find an appropriate route to name in his honor.

The rock is still a bit raw and gritty. Nonetheless, it inspired a second, lengthy approach up to climb it.

With rain and hail pressing, a toprope ascent was all Mother Nature allowed us. It could be led, but it would be heady for sure...maybe R or R/X.

Start on the right side of the arete. Be careful with the loose-appearing block. You can climb delicately around it. Squeeze the arete and straddle it, kick around to the left side (potential cam placement for directional or lead), move back to the right side, continue past a blue Alien placement (for directional), and finish up easier rock to the top of the arete. The optional block up top seems precariously perched in metastability.

You can downclimb ~8' off the block to a stance ~60' up where you could thread a long 1" sling through a tight, natural slot. A long Abalakov hook/coat wire is necessary to pull the sling back through the slot. Alternatively, you can downclimb the left side in the corner (a la Kelly Cordes) or traverse out right on Rain Man to the ledge above and the walkoff.

Note, there appeared to be bear scat in the area.

Location 

This is the obvious arete at the base of middle of Observatory Dome. Count on over an hour approach with the new trailhead if anyone ever comes up here to try it.

To set up the TR, you can ascend the nice, 5.7, right-facing dihedral to the right of the arete.

Protection 

TR is probably best. Smaller cams with double green Aliens? blue Alien may work. A #1 or 2 Camalot, or #4 Friend above with a small wire works for an anchor.

Photos of Ryan's Song Slideshow

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A shot showing the left side. 5/07.