Ryan's Inferno  5.13a

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet Consensus:  5.13a [details] FA:  FFA: Nathanael Hansen, 2008 New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Nathanael Hansen on Feb 6, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Ryan's Inferno beta.

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Seasonal falcon nesting closures MORE INFO >>> The East Face of North Gateway is closed to climbers every year from around Feb 1 until early August, depending on when the birds fledge. It's not posted out there, but since the closure has been in effect for 20+ years it is incumbent on climbers to know about closures by stopping in at the visitor center and asking. The falcons always nest in a big pothole above the traverse ledge and below the Kissing Camels arch. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

All of the rock at the bottom of the climb is rotten, so you need to scamper up the ramp to the base of the rock face. (That said, with good luck, the lower section might clean up and yield something climbable....)

Follow the two bolts left to a big move to the sloping ledge. Traverse right until you can stand up and clip from a bucket. From there on, stay in the crack until you reach the anchors just under the roof.

As well as a lower start, this climb could also have potential to be continued from the first anchor, Triple Exposure-style.
Ryan's Inferno needs more ascents to consolidate the grade as the first ascensionist doesn't have a clue.

Location 

This is the free variation to the first pitch of the aid line, Inferno. It is located between Triple Exposure and Anaconda on the North end of North Gateway. Both climb the ramp to the base of the face, but Ryan's Inferno follows the line of bolts to the left where the aid line goes right. The lines meet up about halfway up the pitch before continuing to the anchors.

Protection 

The bolts (5) and drilled pin are adequate for the send, but there are multiple places for pro. The anchor consists of 3 drilled pins, webbing and rap rings.

Photos of Ryan's Inferno Slideshow

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Ryan's Inferno. Photo: Stewart Green.

Ryan's Inferno. Photo: Mark Tjaden.