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Farmington Crag
Routes Sorted
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137 lbs of Fury T 
Basket Case TR 
Batman Surprise TR 
Butt Crack T 
Cool Air T,TR 
Era of Tara, The T 
Every woman has her charm. TR 
Humble Beginnings T 
Klingon Arete TR 
Nano Pitch TR 
Repent Now or Die TR 
Ryan in a Bikini T,S 
Suck it Up Princess S 
Unsorted Routes:

Ryan in a Bikini 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Erik Gillis, Ryan Lauck
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring, Fall, Winter and if you are brave the summer
Page Views: 589
Submitted By: Erik S. Gillis on Jun 10, 2010

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Description 

I gave this one 4 stars for the area. Honestly I would probably give it 3 stars compared to other quartzite climbs i have done(like in Rock Canyon). The draw back of this one is that it is in the sun and its a long hike to get there. Start just right of the overhanging area. There i a small dihedral starting about 15-20 ft up. This is the climb. Start underneath the roof and climb into the dihedral. Clip the first bolt and continue up until you clip the third bolt. From here it is all trad until you get the chain anchors at the top. Crux is between the 1st and 2nd bolt just getting into the dihedral. Watch out it is steeper than it looks. However, the climbing eases at the top. Cheers

Location 

As I said it is just right of the Overhang on the main crag. You will see it, it is an obvious dihedral and you will see the bolt line in it.

Protection 

Bring medium to small cams. I placed two medium sized ones before the first bolt and then 2 small ones(finger sized) on the face up above the third.


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By Ryan Lauck
From: Farmington, UT
Jun 10, 2010

Me wearing a bikini is your motivation to send - whether thats positive or negative reinforcement is up to you!

We had hoped this line would go entirely on gear, but your last good piece is at your feet when you enter the dihedral and you might face a ground fall if you blew the crux moves. The bolt protects them well now.
By spencerparkin
From: Salt Lake City
Jun 11, 2010

I just have to say that the hike really isn't that hard at all. The climb, on the other...very hard! :)
By steve lindsay
Oct 19, 2010
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

For Davis County a good route. I believe it is to the LEFT of the overhang. Crux for me was coming out of the corner out onto the face (between bolts two and three) . I showered my wife with hundreds (literally) of box elder bugs as I brushed them out of cracks and off ledges. I would rate it 10c-d not 11... Protection description is right on, BD C4 goldilocks off the ground, C3, then the 3 bolts then a few more placements to the top.