Ruta Normal  5.10a

365 page views Good page?

Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 400 feet, Grade III Consensus:  5.10a [details] FA:  Pablo Fisher and Gustavo Kammerer, 1943 Submitted By:  J Med on Dec 18, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Third pitch of Ruta Normal, wide crack through bea...

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

The original summit route ascended, finally, in 1943 after Pablo Fisher and Gustavo Kammerer overcame the final 40-foot slab guarding the summit. They initially spent an hour-and-a-half trying to throw an iron hook over the top, but eventually resorted to drilling seven one-inch metal rods- the holes of which are still visible as you climb past and clip the modern bolts protecting the steep, thin face.

Beautiful, steep granite, with nice crack and face-climbing and a fantastic summit! The route has a "Fifty Classic Climbs" feel to it, as far as quality of climbing, position, and history.

Protection 

Pretty light single rack should suffice; #5 Camalot useful in a couple of places, including the off-width crack on the third pitch and the chimney on the fourth pitch. Lots of fixed gear, particularly the final pitch to summit, which has around ten bolts and fixed pins.

Photos of Ruta Normal Slideshow

Add Photo

Delicate, bolt-protected face climbing on the summ...

Awesome Patagonian summit!