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Ruta Normal 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 400', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Pablo Fisher and Gustavo Kammerer, 1943
Page Views: 929
Submitted By: J Med on Dec 18, 2011

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BETA PHOTO: Kirk Heatwole topping out the 3rd pitch. Photo is ...

Description 

The original summit route ascended, finally, in 1943 after Pablo Fisher and Gustavo Kammerer overcame the final 40-foot slab guarding the summit. They initially spent an hour-and-a-half trying to throw an iron hook over the top, but eventually resorted to drilling seven one-inch metal rods- the holes of which are still visible as you climb past and clip the modern bolts protecting the steep, thin face.

Beautiful, steep granite, with nice crack and face-climbing and a fantastic summit! The route has a "Fifty Classic Climbs" feel to it, as far as quality of climbing, position, and history.

Protection 

Pretty light single rack should suffice; #5 Camalot useful in a couple of places, including the off-width crack on the third pitch and the chimney on the fourth pitch. Lots of fixed gear, particularly the final pitch to summit, which has around ten bolts and fixed pins.


Photos of Ruta Normal Slideshow Add Photo
Bill Bjornstad on the 1st pitch of the Normal Rout...
BETA PHOTO: Bill Bjornstad on the 1st pitch of the Normal Rout...
Delicate, bolt-protected face climbing on the summ...
Delicate, bolt-protected face climbing on the summ...
Third pitch of Ruta Normal, wide crack through bea...
BETA PHOTO: Third pitch of Ruta Normal, wide crack through bea...
Awesome Patagonian summit!
Awesome Patagonian summit!
Bill Bjornstad leading the left (5.7) variation of...
BETA PHOTO: Bill Bjornstad leading the left (5.7) variation of...
Base of the 1st pitch of the Normal Route.
BETA PHOTO: Base of the 1st pitch of the Normal Route.

Comments on Ruta Normal Add Comment
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By Dan Petty
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Feb 4, 2012

We definitely did not feel the need for a #5...