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Rusty's Crack 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Tom Martin, Noel McGlothin, and Tom Kimbro 1964
Page Views: 4,080
Submitted By: Danny Inman on Jun 4, 2007
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stef humping, er I mean seconding Rusty's


This route begins in an obvious flared chimney. Climb the chimney and work out a large roof via the splitter 4" crack. Pull the roof and jam the crack until it ends at a ledge. From the ledge climb the steep and exposed face to a set of ring anchors.


From the trail turn right. The route is located in the main area just past the closures.


Standard rack up to a #4 WC Friend. An old-sized #3.5 camalot is nice for the crack above the roof. The face section accepts mainly finger size and smaller.

Photos of Rusty's Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Chilling on a hammock anchored with nuts made from tied rope.
Chilling on a hammock anchored with nuts made from...
Pulling the crux on Rusty's Crack <br />photo by Doug Liedle
Pulling the crux on Rusty's Crack
photo by Doug Li...
It doesn't get much better than this. Sunset ROCKS! <br /> <br />Photo by Ben Lyon
It doesn't get much better than this. Sunset ROCKS...
Scott pulling moves on Rusty's Crack, Sunset, TN.
Scott pulling moves on Rusty's Crack, Sunset, TN.
Tim on Rusty's
Tim on Rusty's
Comments on Rusty's Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
By saxfiend
From: Decatur, GA
Aug 24, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

Excellent! The moves are all there if you can get a good jam high enough to place your feet well. Maybe next time I will . . .

By cshuey77
From: Asheviile,nc
May 27, 2010

2- ways to climb the crux, both are 10a

By JohnWesely
From: Red River Gorge
Aug 15, 2011

How do you do this route? I had to french free the crux. This is the only 5.10 I have ever not been able to complete.

By Travis Griggs
Mar 4, 2013

I pulled the roof crux by keeping my feet right as long as possible, then leaning way out left to a good hold about even with the base of the crack on the left. Once you've got that, cut your feet, swing left, and pull up to squeeze (hump?) the left overhanging arete between your feet. Before your thighs give out, squeeze hard, stand up, and jam a right hand fist jam as high as you can in the crack. Pray it holds while you match your left foot at your left hand, then you're golden!

Take a long rest at the spacious ledge a few feet above to bask in the glory and proclaim your excellence to the crowds, which have undoubtedly gathered.