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 ADVANCED
Rusty Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Finish What You Started T 
Maneater, The T,TR 
O'Kelley's Crack T 
Riddles in the Dark (aka Ok Crank) T 
Slapshot T 
Wangerbanger T 

Rusty Wall  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 34.03212, -116.17216 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 67,665
Administrators: C Miller, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: M.Morley on Nov 25, 2002
Forecast:
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Clear
90° | 67°
Clear
92° | 69°
Clear
91° | 68°
Clear
87° | 61°
Clear
80° | 54°
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Angelina climbing smoothly through the crux of Wan...

Description 

What the Rusty Wall lacks in quantity, it makes up for in quality. There are two excellent, steep cracks to climb here: O'Kelley's Crack (5.10c) on the right and Wangerbanger (5.11c) to the left.

Getting There 

From Echo Tee, hang a left and, if driving, park where the dirt road ends at a gate, which is the entrance to Keys Ranch. Walk west towards the obvious orange-colored wall. Approach time: 10 minutes.


Climbing Season



Weather station 9.5 miles from here

6 Total Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',2],['5.11',3],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Rusty Wall:
O'Kelley's Crack   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Wangerbanger   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Browse More Classics in Rusty Wall

Featured Route For Rusty Wall
In the roof. Dangling belay device shows the angle. Photo by Cho.

The Maneater 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b  CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Rusty Wall
This offwidth crack through a roof is a classic exercise in bathanging and awkward lip enounters. If you don't fancy hanging upside down, it has gone with a more conventional horizontal squeeze approach and would be more easily protected that way with readily available cams (6 friend/camalot). The crux is turning the lip, and could go many ways depending on your imagination and/or size of body parts. Strenuous, unique, and whimsically absurd. It is not located on the Rusty Wall proper, but clos...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Rusty Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Rusty Wall, showing <a href='/v/wangerbanger/105722356'>Wangerbanger</a> (L) and <a href='/v/okelleys-crack/105722353'>O'Kelley's Crack</a> (R).
BETA PHOTO: Rusty Wall, showing Wangerbanger (L) and [[105722...
Rusty Wall. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Rusty Wall.
Photo by Blitzo.
Rusty Wall from approach. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Rusty Wall from approach.
Photo by Blitzo.
Rusty Wall from the road, Joshua Tree NP
Rusty Wall from the road, Joshua Tree NP

Comments on Rusty Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
By Murf
Nov 25, 2002
Rusty Wall is part of the Outback , not Echo!
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Nov 25, 2002
Murf - I'm just going by Randy's guide here. He categorizes Rusty Wall under "Echo Rock Area". It's right on the border between Echo and The Outback.