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c. Frog's Head - the Arch
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Rusty Trifle 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 180'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: 1950 Hans Kraus and Bonnie Prudden
Page Views: 1,248
Submitted By: Stefano Prezioso on Apr 4, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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Description 

Fun first pitch, with easy, wandering climbing to the top.

P1) Go up the left-facing corner about 30 feet, then traverse right for 30 feet (crux) to a ledge. 5.5

P2) Climb up and right to a large block, then up and left to a right facing corner. Go up this corner and continue straight to the overhangs. After, go up and left to the GT Ledge, belay off tree. 5.3

P3) Go up the face right of a big block to an overhang. Go up and right, then up and left, and pass a small, white, right-facing corner to a pine tree belay/rap station. 5.3

Make sure to protect as well as possible on the traverse to avoid a large pendulum for the second.


Location 

Shares a start with Bloody Mary, a few feet right of Morning After. 15 foot high left-facing corner with a crack approximately 30 feet high.

Rappel straight down with a single rope in three rappels off of trees.


Protection 

P1 Anchor takes smaller gear and tricams in pockets.

P2 & 3 are tree belays.

Standard rack. Climb takes lots of nuts and tricams. A few old fixed pins scattered about.



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By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Apr 10, 2011

Overall a fun, almost-accurate 5.3 Gunks climb. The 5.5 start from the left has no protection for the leader or the follower for about 20 feet. A swing would scrape you up, but there are no corners to swing into and there's no ground fall potential. Also there are virtually no hands for a few of those 20 feet. The anchor at P1 (5.5) is small gear and tricams.

Pitches 2 and 3 were almost on grade, with great Gunky face climbing and plenty of protection. The only non-5.3 section was the last couple of moves at the very top of P2, I found them to be maybe 5.4 or 5.5-ish.

Definitely a sleeper climb and something I'd bring beginners on.

By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Oct 15, 2011

Kevin, not sure what you are talking about with no pro for the first 20 feet. There are old pins and decent placements during the entire traverse. It's a great climb and the traverse adds some fun to the 5.3 pitches above. If you are a new leader, I would recommend skipping the 5.5 traverse and starting from the Bloody Bush ledge. Much fun climbing on this route.

By A.wilk
From: MA
Apr 19, 2014
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

The first pitch of this is definitely worth doing. The climbing up to the traverse is easy, the traverse protects very well and it ends with a nice jughaul up to a pine tree rap station. Great way to really appreciate good ol' gunks traversing.