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Derek on the FA.
This route starts off with a bang. The first few clips through thin face climbing is the crux. After reaching the small ledge, continue on hard 5.10 climbing up and left to the anchors.
Beware of some loose blocks. When I did this route, I almost pulled off a 30 pounder off on the small ledge above the crux.
This is the first route around the corner to the left of Churchill.
|Comments on Rusty Shackleford
|By Spencer Anderson|
From: Fort Collins, CO
Apr 21, 2007
Not too bad of a climb, just not very consistent. The difficulty eases up considerably after the first two or three clips. The ledges provide lengthy rests.
Nov 16, 2008
Probably more like 11c off the ground to 10 up high.
Apr 28, 2009
Yeah I agree with Elliot, and even so I only think a couple of the moves in the begining are 11c. Definitely not a consistent grade but a fun climb nonetheless.
Jan 15, 2010
I just wanted to clear up the grade on this ole girl. It was originally thought to be 11b not 11d. There was a miss communication when the ink hit the page all those years back, (which is weird since we were all totally sober...). So, a "b" was heard and written as "d". Honestly, who cares? It's a fun route for a pile! If you want to have more fun on the route, check out the dyno at the beginning, now everyone goes left.