Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
9 Wall (Feather Ledges)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Butt-hurt Yankee, The T 
Glad I'm Not High T 
Gray Matter S 
Just Say Yes S 
One Hard Move TR 
One step forward T,S 
Pipe Dreams T,S 
Rad Trad T 
Rusty Oldtimer S 
Two Hard Moves TR 
Unsorted Routes:

Rusty Oldtimer 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 780
Submitted By: T Roper on Dec 7, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Felix leading Rusty Oldtimer


This climb was done a long time ago by someone who put in one 1/4 inch bolt to pro the whole climb. Pinch your way past the first bolt to a decent stance with a hand jam on the way, head strait up to the next bolt, pass an undercling/sidepull then mantle left of the third bolt and run up to the anchors. If you stay right of the third bolt and avoid the jug out left it goes at 10d.

A bit run out on top, make sure the belayer pays attention here.


center of the tall wall


3 bolts

Comments on Rusty Oldtimer Add Comment
Show which comments
By micah richard
From: Litchfield, Connecticut
May 5, 2013

Nice moves, this whole wall has really great rock.
By Paul Alberti
Aug 11, 2014

Bolts have been smashed as has the top anchor. The person who did it didnt have the decency to remove the quicklinks at the top so they can still be clipped but they are not safe. Rendering an anchor unsafe and leaving it in place gives all climbers a bad name. Hopefully no one has an accident before these can be removed.
By John K. Parejko
From: New Haven, CT
Jul 12, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The bolts were replaced (big thanks to whoever did that!), and all is well. Just lead it today: fun climb.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!