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 ADVANCED
9 Wall (Feather Ledges)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Butt-hurt Yankee, The T 
Glad I'm Not High T 
Gray Matter S 
Just Say Yes S 
One Hard Move TR 
One step forward T,S 
Pipe Dreams T,S 
Rad Trad T 
Rusty Oldtimer S 
TBD T 
Two Hard Moves TR 
Unsorted Routes:

Rusty Oldtimer 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 564
Submitted By: MJMobes on Dec 7, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Felix leading Rusty Oldtimer

Description 

This climb was done a long time ago by someone who put in one 1/4 inch bolt to pro the whole climb. Pinch your way past the first bolt to a decent stance with a hand jam on the way, head strait up to the next bolt, pass an undercling/sidepull then mantle left of the third bolt and run up to the anchors. If you stay right of the third bolt and avoid the jug out left it goes at 10d.

A bit run out on top, make sure the belayer pays attention here.

Location 

center of the tall wall

Protection 

3 bolts


Comments on Rusty Oldtimer Add Comment
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By micah richard
May 5, 2013

Nice moves, this whole wall has really great rock.
By Paul Alberti
Aug 11, 2014

Bolts have been smashed as has the top anchor. The person who did it didnt have the decency to remove the quicklinks at the top so they can still be clipped but they are not safe. Rendering an anchor unsafe and leaving it in place gives all climbers a bad name. Hopefully no one has an accident before these can be removed.