Rustler 5.10b
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Description follow a direct line of crimps and jugs up a yellow and black streaked face. Pull a short roof via jugs, getting a bit of exposure, heel hook, and wrestle more jugs to the anchors. One of the most bullet routes at Steele. Take heed in the first few moves, do not Z-clip, or fall when passing the first bolt...as a ledge lay below. 2 moves later, you will find a jug to clip the 2nd bolt after pulling a short bulge. This particular climb in very reminiscent of the Canyon's easiest warm ups, boasting flat crimps, gastons, and jugs for the entire climb. IMHO, one of the best sport routes at Steele in terms of rock quality, aesthetics, and exposure when jugging out the short roof (keep in mind, there are ~ 12 sport routes in over 1 mile of cliff). While not an earth shattering grade, this climb is definitely worth doing if you pass by. Climbs a lot like Satisfaction at the New. A name that would suit both climbs.
- Equipped and climbed by A. Hamiter (2010)
- Historically, there is a vague,long-lost, trad line to the left of the black streak, starting about 8-10 feet left of Rustler, that may enter the last bolts by making a right arching escape to the most obvious exit in the roof. I intend to climb this old trad line to see where the actual placements are in regard to the bolts, and attempt a direct finish, if possible, out the steepest section of the roof, avoiding the diagonal traverse to the exit. If the line can be taken direct out the roof, the finishing moves will certainly be harder than the initial face moves, probably in the 5.11 range. Bernard, our best historian for this end of the cliff has suggested this newly bolted line may be a partial retro on the exit of this old trad route in question. This unknown trad line was published in a popular climbing magazine of the time. However, Several experienced leaders have confirmed that there are no gear placements between the 1st and 5th bolt of Rustler. Until gear can be placed in this section left of the streak, it remains unknown as to where the exact line travels. My personal opinion stands that if this section of face was led on trad gear, in any arm span left or right of the 5 bolts, it would be 5.10X, probably headpointed on TR, and fired. Certainly not an unheard-of feat for the time. The most obvious placements(spotted on several rappels) start left of the black streak, weaves right to the left side of the streak, passing a suspect, small wire, BD# 2/3 placement, at the base of a protruding choss block that looks ready to go. The line appears to travel back left to the gray face where several horizontals exist, roughly the size of a 00 T.C.U or similar, then right, crossing the last section of face, to the base of the roof, escaping right, nearing the end of the slab. If the original line can be uncovered, this trad line will be another moderate rediscovery, probably 5.10-/+ R. Take notice that the black streak will often stay dirty and wet due to the sandy runoff, leaking from the bottom of the roof, and has contributed to the decay of some of the placements within sections left of the streak and within the streak, near the top. While Rustler stays right of the streak, It remains untouched by the seeping ooze coming from the roof.
Overall, the first initial impressions would give this climb 4 stars(3 out of 5, at a five star crag). Time will tell if the climb is deserving of the compliments, stars, and the hardware that it has received. A few hours can be spent in this area, if not all day. There are lots of classics in and around this area. The 5.8 dihedral, several unnamed 5.8-9 gear climbs down the hill next to Wrangler, Golden Arch is a classic and waits down the hill. Further down the cliff line are several bolted climbs, B-52-mixed, Full Moon BBQ-fully bolted/no anchors, and Song of the Cows. Full Moon BBQ is the best of the three, just remember to set up webbing or have a 2nd that can climb the grade.
Location Starts 20 feet right of an obvious 5.8 dihedral on a yellow and black streaked face. These routes are located left of Wolfe Wall just before the Jolly Roger/Evil Is Cave on a high terrace path.
Protection 6 bolts. Two Fixe hangers with quicklinks and locking biners at the top. These hangers and biners will be changed out in the coming weeks with rings. These are not your booty and are only there to serve the purpose of convenience until the rings can be installed.
By bernard
From: birmingham, al
Jan 3, 2011
| The original trad route began off the opening ledges on small edges and underclings in the area under the black streaks. The route followed up and in the vicinity of the streaks and finished through the same weakness in the roof. It was done on small wires and old school cams and was rated 5.10b/c R maybe. We had to brush some of the holds in the area of the streaks due to the black mold and dust and what not. I'd rapped over it recently and noticed that to be resurrected, the holds would need to be brushed again. It was a pretty good trad route....proud, committing....and i wished it had been left alone because there are not that many worthy, complete trad routes in this area. |
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