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Rusted Route 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Jason Young
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 263
Submitted By: Jason Young on Mar 27, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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BETA PHOTO: Looking up at the "Rusted Route".

Description 

I was at El Rito last weekend and noticed that I hadn't taken down the red tag on this route yet. I left it up because I wanted to do some more cleaning on it. I got on it again and cleaned it up a bit more. It still has some unfortunate loose, gritty rock through the crux section, but I don't think anything deadly will come off.

This route is a jug-haul to the third bolt, has a reachy crux past the third bolt, and some thinner moves to the anchor. There is kind of a "run-out" between the third and fourth bolts, but I don't think you'd want to stop and clip there anyway.

Location 

This is the farthest left route on the Cellar Wall, formerly known as the "Unfinished New Route". You'll see it when looking straight up the Route Canal.

Protection 

Four SS, 1/2", Rawl 5-piece protection bolts and hangers to a 2BA with large SS quick clips.


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By Mort
Jun 9, 2012
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Better than I expected. Runout is no big deal. Nice addition.
By DisturbingThePeace
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jul 23, 2012

Fun route, cool sequences on pinches thru the crux. Probably already a touch easier than 11d, and will continue to get easier as it cleans up.