Rust Never Sleeps
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British R
Avg: 3.1 from 9 votes
Type: | Sport, TR, 40 ft (12 m) |
FA: | Jim Thornburg |
Page Views: | 4,419 total · 19/month |
Shared By: | Brian Quiter on Mar 5, 2005 · Updates |
Admins: | Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
Rust Never Sleeps is the left of two routes on the Gray Slab. Start by traversing left across slab above crashing waves until you reach the first bolt. Then continue moving up and left on quality slab moves to the second bolt and up to the top. Lots of fun but probably best for a confident 5.10 leader.
Protection
There are two bolts to a 3 bolt anchor, but no rap chains, so the last person to climb usualy walks off the right side of gray slab (5.3). You can also set up a top rope by soloing the arete first.
Falling before the first bolt would not be fun, and you have to traverse a long way on slab before you get to it (5.8).
Ropes often end up wet too.
Falling before the first bolt would not be fun, and you have to traverse a long way on slab before you get to it (5.8).
Ropes often end up wet too.
3 Comments