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Altai 
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Russia 


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Submitted By: Artem Lebedev on May 20, 2008

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Bezengi Wall as it appears from the Bezengi Glacie...

Description 

All sort of climbing resources: from small crags to enormous mountain areas and from warm fun sport routs to very involved expeditions.
Climbing, mountaineering and technical backpacking are very popular and received extensive governmental support during Soviet period. Therefore, climbing regulations are pretty strict and explicit. An independent route classification has been developed for alpine climbs, and most of the routes are rated according to this classification. For shorter or newer routes usually French system is used.


Getting There 

All major airlines to Moscow (capital), Saint-Petersburg (second largest city), Novosibirsk (major city in Siberia). Then local airlines, railroad, buses, taxi.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Russia:
Elbrus. E. Summit through "Shelter-11"   Mod. Snow     Snow, Alpine, 4600 feet, Grade III   Caucasus : Elbrus
Djangi-tau (16568 ft). E summit through E buttress   5.6 M2- PG13     Trad, Mixed, Alpine, 4500 feet, Grade IV   Bezengi : Djangi-kosh
Dyh-Tau (17073 ft). Main Summit through Right S. Buttress.   5.7+ PG13     Trad, Alpine, 5000 feet, Grade V   Bezengi : Djangi-kosh
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Featured Route For Russia
Scheme of the Djangi Massif

Djangi-tau (16568 ft). E summit through E buttress 5.6 M2- PG13  International : Asia : ... : Djangi-kosh
Rated "4b" in Russian classification. There are two possible ways from moraine campground to Bezengi glacier and rock base of NE ridge of Djangi: 1) Descent from the campground to the right from the icefall step of the Bezengi glacier, 60-150 ft. to the left of the NE ridge of Djangi. (Caution: there is icefall on the rocks). This route is rarely done. 2) Descent from the campground to the left of the icefall step of the Bezengi glacier, directly through the glacier center up toward the Dyh...[more]   Browse More Classics in International