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Larry Coats on the first ascent of Rushin' Arete. ...
This one doesn't get led much, and for good reason. The first half of the climb is fun and well protected and takes you to a big ledge. From the ledge you can get down on your stomach and place some gear, or go out right and put gear in the corner. Either way, you're in for a nasty fall if you come off at the crux. The arete is insecure and balancy. Very cool. Just after the crux you can reach right and get gear in the corner. Whew!
Variation: If you want to be closer to your pro you could just go up the corner off the ledge, but then that wouldn't be Rush'n' ARETE now would it?
Start at the first major corner left of Standard Forks at a straight in flare.
Don't remember, but probably 2 each to #2 Camalot.
|Comments on Rushin' Arete
From: Phoenix, AZ
4 days ago
Would definitely be a bad fall to mess up the crux, but the movement is sweet and the solid pro would've definitely prevented me from catastrophe. Long sling and a #1 or 0.75 as high up as I could reach, then out to the arete and climb with faith. Beautiful movement. The start of the climb felt the hardest!!