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Lost Angel
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Naked Lunch S 
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Rage Against The Machine T,S 
Raise the Titanic S 
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Rush S 
Shape Shifters T 
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Signs of Life S 
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Standard Route S 
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Take the Power Back T 
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Variation to Hunky Monkey S 
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Zentropa T,S 

Rush 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Richard Rossiter, Bonnie Von Grebe
Page Views: 332
Submitted By: Ivan Rezucha on Oct 11, 2003

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Chuck Graves starting the crux bulge. The crack to...

Description 

Rush is the sister route to the left of Rage Against the Machine on the sunny Wake Up Wall of Lost Angel. Approach via the South Trail (see Rossiter). The Wake Up Wall is the first obvious wall on the right as you descend along Lost Angel towards the creek. The right side of Wake Up Wall features the deep but short, right-facing corner of Jungle Blues From Jupiter, which is capped by a 45 degree roof. Left of that is a comfy ledge with a few small trees below the ceilings of Rage Against the Machine and Rush.

Start at the base the rightmost vertical crack that leads up from the ledge. This crack is Take the Power Back (5.9). This and the two climbs left of it, Crack in the Wall (10a) and the Killing in the Name (9) are nice looking trad climbs.

The first bolt is just off the ground and is shared by Rush and Take the Power Back. Move right and up onto some big crystals to the 2nd bolt at a steep wall. Move up to some positive holds and clip the 3rd bolt. Pull over the bulge (crux) either by reaching or lunging to buckets up and right (ugly) or by pulling left into the crack. There was a lot of chalk on the crack, but climbing the crack directly looked much harder, although perhaps necessary if you are below a certain height.

The 4th bolt is on the wall of the short right facing corner through the ceiling. The ceiling is rated 10d on the Rossiter topo, but felt about 10a (or 9+?)to me, and fun, with good feet and hands.

Above, you can move either left or right and run it out about 25 feet up easier cracks (5.6 or so) to anchors. The left crack is a bit harder than the right crack, and perhaps longer. A couple of hand-sized cams would be a good idea if you're not comfortable climbing unprotected at that grade.

Between the two finishing cracks is an obvious moderate-looking finger crack over a small bulge. Why doesn't the route continue up this crack? Perhaps Rossiter wanted to keep this a sport route and didn't want to bolt the crack.

I'm rating this 11b as per the Rossiter Boulder Canyon guide, but for me, it felt hard 10 based on the trad ratings I'm more familiar with. It is definitely easier for me than Rage Against the Machine.


Protection 

5 bolts to a choice of two 2-bolt anchors with rings. Optional: A couple of hand size pieces for the easy cracks (two choices) to the anchors.



Comments on Rush Add Comment
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By Ralph Bodenner
Apr 7, 2008
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

Fun route, can easily be toproped by climbing Take the Power Back and moving right to an anchor after the bulge. Belaying from the ground, rather than the sloping ledge, can be done with a 60m rope. There are two or three bolts too many, though, as the crack through the roof would take good gear.

By J.Lyons
Nov 5, 2012

Back in the Fall of 2008, I bolted a variation to this route. After pulling the roof, go straight up and over another bulge past a few bolts to a two bolt anchor. This is a much nicer variation than having to move left or right around the bulge up moderate cracks. I would guess this is the variation that is talked about at the end of the main description of this route. I'm not sure why Rossiter didn't straighten the line out either. The climbing is fun and more consistent. There are a couple moves over that second bulge that I felt were 10+/11a but not any harder than the crux lower on the climb. If I remember correctly, I placed an orange TCU to help protect the last moves to the anchor. It would be nice to get that confirmed if anyone out there in interweb land has done this variation.

By slim
Administrator
Nov 5, 2012
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Did it a couple weeks ago, and I thought it was a good improvement to the route. Bolts are well placed, and the climbing is fun.

On a separate note, if the bolt above the first roof was moved to either side of the crack (instead of directly with the crack), the rope would stay out of the pinch point better.