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This route used to be a 5.10b until a key hold in the crux broke making it a 5.12a. So, essentially the route is a hard 5.9/easy 5.10 with a 5.12 move on the roof section. The route begins in a crack just to the right of a large overhanging roof. Climb the crack to the roof and traverse to the left. Here you will find a critical series of 3-4 moves to conquer the roof. There is a bolt on the roof which you may want to clip on toprope to avoid an undesirable swing (especially if you might be there for awhile). Once you conquer the roof, follow the crack to the top where you will make a zigzag to the left before reaching the anchor.
The toprope requires a class 4-5 downclimb from the top of the wall, you'll need some gear and a sling. The top is best accessed via a hike up the left side of the crag. You can rope up the route without the downclimb, but I do not recommend it due to rope wear.
Myke Komarnitsky at the difficult crux roof.
Shaun trying the same.
Dan Morta attempts the crux of Rush Hour.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Jul 23, 2001
I think that .12 might be a little high for the grade on Rush Hour. My guess is that it it more like .11 b/c.
|By Chad Stebbins|
Jul 31, 2004
I would strongly disagree that this route goes at 5.11, 12 minus in my opinion. It is actually quite enjoyable lead if you angle up and right and join Dementia at the roof. A one or 2 move wonder with fun climbing above. 1.5 stars in my book.
From: Longmont, CO
May 9, 2007
Definitely .12- crux. One bolt on route (protects crux), is easy to clip from funky layback. Power up off tiny tiny holds to big finish. Rest of route gets R rating. Takes a few TCUs the rest of the way up.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 7, 2008
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a
After doing it not knowing anything about it, I guessed 11c or 11d. Call it 11+ and we're good. I doubt it was 12a, but maybe I got lucky or something. Fun moves marred by discontinuity of a line and lots of guano below the roof.
|By They call me Sam|
From: Fort Collins, Colorado
Oct 25, 2010
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a
I do agree it was a 12 move, but somehow can't give it a 12 rating seeing as it finishes so easy. For you taller folk, did you have to use an intermediate after the left hand 3 finger shelf? If not, I can see how that makes it easier. At least with my foot smear, I def had to use that intermediate.
Jun 11, 2011
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a
Jun 19, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a
I thought this route was ok. The start caught me off guard a bit - I didn't even look at it until I started climbing. Not hard but not exactly easy. The move over the roof felt way awkward. Good hand holds but really scrunchy feet. Probably considerably easier if you are short, as the hand movements are pretty small. Good quick after work 12a, worth doing once.
Also, if you are doing this one with somebody who will have trouble TR'ing the roof cleanly, you will want a plan. You don't really get gear after the roof until you go way up to the right. You will need to either back clean and try to get a piece way out left above, or do some other shenanigans. Otherwise, if the 2nd falls after unclipping the bolt, it would be an unpleasant, rope-grating swing.