||Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA: ||John Ficker, Ken Akers, and Glen Dickenson, 1981|
|Season: ||fall through spring|
|Page Views: ||571|
|Submitted By: ||Erock on Mar 5, 2006|
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Stepping up on extremely thin holds to get to the ...
Starting the climb would be the crux although i don't think that this is a true 5.10b, the rating seems a little soft, oh well. Just don't fall after the first bolt before placing your next piece, ground out.
Start onto thin face 6 feet right of varicose, rappel off east side.
1 bolt, small pro to .75, eyebolt/backup bolt belay.
CM moving into the crux section
CM moving up to reach the much easier upper portio...
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Jan 19, 2007
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Greg, I would have to agree, I lead this route and did several hangs at the first bolt. Although myself and the two other people I were with said that the numb fingers from climbing in the cold made it feel like 10d. So we say 10c with warm fingers, 10d rating= numb fingers. Yellow alien fits ok for next piece near the polished melonhead hold.