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Running on Empty 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 175'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Edmund Ward & Karl Kiser, late 70s
Page Views: 82
Submitted By: Karl Kiser on Dec 10, 2012

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Description 

p1: scramble up to the top of a small mound below a roof. face climb up to the roof, clip a bolt and then traverse right around a corner and belay (at bolts).

p2: just follow the crack, this is the crux pitch. jam some off width, rest, and then go up a steep lie back. step left at the end of the pumpy section and belay at bolts.

p3: don't do it, it is 5.8 and loose.

Location 

The route is on the north side of the east buttress of Orp. Approach as per Orgy but be on the downhill side of the big gash. Look for the obvious crack system on the north margin of the buttress.
Rap off the top of the second pitch to the right, about 150 feet.

Protection 

Standard trad rack with at least one larger piece for the short offwidth section on the second pitch.


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By Karl Kiser
Dec 10, 2012

Take a bolt kit, the anchor bolts are old and need some help.