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 ADVANCED
The Oven
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Running Man 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
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Page Views: 713
Submitted By: Andrew Ryder on Apr 15, 2008

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Description 

Pull the low crux bulge - a great boulder problem on small edges and knobs - and clip the second bolt. Continue on with sustained, technical crimping to a final desperate move near the top. A short, but totally classic route on bullet rock.

Location 

Walking right from Mall Wall and Way Gone, this is the last bolt line before the Oven starts to turn mega-steep. Skirts the edge of a roof/bulge.

Protection 

4 bolts to Mussy Hooks. It would be wise to stick clip the first bolt or have a spot, use good judgment.


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By Tavis Ricksecker
From: Bishop, ca
Jul 25, 2009

Cool route.. Thin and delicate to start, then bouldery and powerful, then a sloper finish. Agree on the stick clip, if only because clipping off that tiny crimp HURTS. ow