|167 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.9 [details]|
|FA: ||Arie Leeflang and Sean Brown, July 2005?|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Submitted By: ||Arie on Dec 6, 2012|
BETA PHOTO: Chunnel runs.
Climbing the west end of The Egg formation “The Runnel” offers some interesting climbing. The crux is avoiding the inordinately large stack of rotten blocks that make up the left edge of the runnel. Start off an awkward series of low-angle slabs down about 50 feet from “Cracked Egg”- the climb's two bolts are fairly obvious. Climb up runout features from below or traverse in from the left on shrinking chickenheads and clip the first bolt. A second bolt comes quickly with a few slab moves and soon you are looping an engorged chickenhead. A moderate move reaches the runnel proper and a ladder of edges and side-cracks bring you to a low-angle section of rock on the arete left of Leggo. Belay in cracks or use one of the giant horns. We considered a chain anchor- but apparently this is the first belay on the odd Low Brow girdle and it just didn't seem right. Continue up the crack above (somewhat wide), finish the last few clips of Leggo, or rap off a doomed tree 10 feet down from the belay. Climbing this originally roped solo (some aid) I thought this climb was much harder- a partnered ascent eased the rating.
West end of The Egg- around the corner from Leggo, and down hill from Cracked Egg. The two bolts are fairly obvious.