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North (Left) Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Full Rubber Mission S 
Glenda S 
Grendel S 
Jabberwocky S 
Once Upon a Time S 
Rumplestiltskin S 
Straight On Til Morning S 
Technowitch S 
Tinkerbell's Nightmare S 
White Witch S 

Rumplestiltskin 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Bertrand Gramont & Don Goodhew 5/88, Direct Start: Porter Jarrard
Page Views: 3,415
Submitted By: DisturbingThePeace on Jul 26, 2006

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Matthew NM moving up into the resting corner on Ru...

Thompson Canyon MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Another classic tower endurance climb. Starts in a small dihedral through entertaining and easier than thy look moves. Continue up with big pulls between big pockets to a large rest. Figure out how to snag a rest here (I've heard of people sitting on the ledge), or if the pump clock is ticking start the sprint up the final headwall. Continue on steep rock for the next three bolts then enjoy the easier ground to the anchors.

Location 

Look for the small dihedral just right of "Once Upon a Time". Last climb on the starting ledge for "Once Upon a Time" and "Grendel". Between "Once Upon A Time" & "White Witch".

Protection 

9 Bolts + Anchors, Stickclip so you don't fall of the ledge.


Photos of Rumplestiltskin Slideshow Add Photo
Matthew NM nearing the end of the steep bit and th...
Matthew NM nearing the end of the steep bit and th...
Rumplestiltskin action. July 2012.
Rumplestiltskin action. July 2012.
Meghan at the crux of  Rumplestiltskin
Meghan at the crux of Rumplestiltskin
Meghan's "life preserver rest"
Meghan's "life preserver rest"
Nearing the climbs 1/2 way point: on RP
Nearing the climbs 1/2 way point: on RP
Meghan on  Rumplestiltskin
Meghan on Rumplestiltskin
Matthew NM chucking another lap.
Matthew NM chucking another lap.
pulling the crux moves of  Rumplestiltskin
pulling the crux moves of Rumplestiltskin
Lower moves
Lower moves
Mid-section
Mid-section

Comments on Rumplestiltskin Add Comment
Show which comments
By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Apr 27, 2011
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

The third bolt is still missing on Rumple, but you can clip a bolt on the next route to the right at about the same height. Of course doing so is not ideal, but if you fall moving through the next section to the 4th bolt you at least won't deck.
Best.
By Tim Kuss
From: Durango, CO
May 1, 2011

The hanger is still missing as of the last day of April, 2011. Who would remove it/have it fall off/break and not fix it?
By DisturbingThePeace
From: Albuquerque, NM
Sep 12, 2011

As of Sept 2011, the missing bolt has been replaced.