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Rumple Teaser 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Richard Wright and Anna Brandenburg-Schroeder, 1997.
Page Views: 2,688
Submitted By: Michael Komarnitsky on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (75)
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BETA PHOTO: 1. Skimbleshanks, 8-. 2. Old Deuteronomy, 9. 3. Mu...

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  • Description 

    This route starts as a piece of cake, with easy 5.7 slab moves, but stiffens as you approach the top. I felt the crux was at the very top of the climb, between the last bolt and the anchors. Just follow the bolts.

    Protection 

    12 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. Be sure to use a 60m rope.... it's close to 100' to the ground.


    Photos of Rumple Teaser Slideshow Add Photo
    The last 3 bolts and the crux area.
    BETA PHOTO: The last 3 bolts and the crux area.
    Rumple Teaser.
    BETA PHOTO: Rumple Teaser.
    Carl Brockhoff leading Rumple Teaser.
    Carl Brockhoff leading Rumple Teaser.
    Phil P enjoying the 'Tease, 4-2-11.
    Phil P enjoying the 'Tease, 4-2-11.
    Mark cruising.
    Mark cruising.

    Comments on Rumple Teaser Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Michael Foy
    From: Denver, CO
    Jun 16, 2003

    Climbed here on saturday 6/16/2003. The coldshut anchors on this route are in desperate need of replacement. One of the anchors is half way worn through by people lowering on the anchors. Learn how to rappel!
    By Bruce Hildenbrand
    Jun 18, 2003

    We added 5/16" quick links with a single link of 3/8" proof coil chain to all the anchors on Catslab (except Skimbleshanks and Grizabella - they had already been"fixed" and Gus and Rum Tum Tugger..???). That should help alleviate wear problems to the cold shuts. When the 3/8" links wear, just unscrew the quick link and replace the link of chain.

    Yes, it would be nice if people didn't use the anchors directly for top roping and lowering.
    By Robbie Flick
    From: Denver, CO
    Jul 18, 2011

    I had a great time on this route. It gets much harder very quickly - right when the rock turns white. I felt that a lot of the clips were either made from extremely insecure positions, or were slightly out of reach (5' 11", ape index +2).

    Important to note that I'm also not the best slab climber out there, so that also contributed. Overall a very fun route though.
    By mountainhick
    From: Black Hawk, CO
    Jul 11, 2013
    rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    Not sure how anyone finds this 5.10b. Seems like 5.10- to me by the last couple bolts.
    By Jay Eggleston
    From: Denver
    May 1, 2014
    rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    I thought this route was 10- as well. There are lots of slab moves and the route is fun. There are not many huge jugs so a new slab climber may find it more challenging.