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Warm Up Cave
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Rump to Jump 

Hueco: V7 Font: 7A+

   
Type:  Boulder, 15'
Consensus:  Hueco: V7 Font: 7A+ [details]
FA: Ward Smith - early '90s
Page Views: 1,025
Submitted By: tscupp on Apr 15, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Description 

The indirect sit start to Neil's Lunge.

Start on ok crimps down low and to the right of cave overhang. Make your way up and right on cool looking undercling flakes and make the difficult transition into the left facing flake of neil's lunge. Finish up on Neil's of course.

Location 

center of the wall, on crimps on the low vertical wall.

Protection 

pad


Comments on Rump to Jump Add Comment
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By Joe M.
Apr 20, 2010
rating: V7+ 7A+

this problem is actually named Rump to Jump (start sitting on your rump then finish with the jump on Neil's Lunge).
By tscupp
From: Cincinnati, OH
Apr 20, 2010

oops, my bad, I can't believe I never noticed that it was spelled that way.
By Christopher J Simpson
Oct 29, 2012
rating: V7-8 7B

Any word on the new grade since the gaston came off for the transition into Neil's? Max Monn and Matt Giosi were pretty confident it has become an 8. Personally, I don't have enough confidence in my sense of grades to say one way or the other. Thoughts?
By Joe M.
Oct 29, 2012
rating: V7+ 7A+

Did another hold break recently? I have not been down there for a while...
By Dana Seaton
Nov 6, 2012

The problem was over graded at v7 prior to its original break. It was probably v6, no harder than the sit that moves left into the axe head. After the first break a few years ago, using the broken gaston probably made it v7, although the toe hook beta has always been there which if it works for you supposedly does not feel hard. with the most recent break, the toe hook beta now becomes the path of least resistance, so that beta should garner the grade, whatever the consensus on that beta is, but probably not harder than v7. Forcing yourself to use the now terrible broken hold is not only harder, but not any fun.
By Joe M.
Nov 6, 2012
rating: V7+ 7A+

Well said, Dana. The better question is what does the new break do to Clutch???
By Dana Seaton
Nov 8, 2012

Not as fun as it was after the initial break. But, one can still enjoy the clutch sit into new dimension.