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By jake 356
From worcester
May 7, 2012

so my girlfriend recently wanted to go climbing and she really liked it. one problem she kinda sucks and doesnt really finish most climbs and is getting a bit fustrated. we are going up to rumney in a clouple weeks to do clippy doda.....easy but still a good feeling of accompilshment. could any one recomend any other good climbs of a lower grade that might be easier?


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By Read
From Townsend, MA
May 7, 2012
Echo Crag

Lady and the tramp the two pitch bolted climb next to clippy doda is a good time. Its also probably a little more comfy if she has any issues with trusting gear since the belay ledge for the second pitch is huge. Pee wee's play house at upper vader is short but pretty fun, and you have two options on how to climb it. Stay left of bolts its 5.4 and if you stay to the right of the bolts its a little harder so you can make it a little more interesting for yourself. There is also a couple short harder climbs right next to it so you could take a quick lap on something harder. And if you don't mind hiking around a bit the wimpy gillman is really cool and only 5.3. Unfortunately its a little spaced out but if like I said already you don't mind hiking around a little you can get a tour of a few different crags and make a full day out on the mountain.


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By Jake D.
From Northeast
May 7, 2012

walk off to climbers left, go back up Lady and the Tramp just to the right of Clippity. walk off again, don't rap. bring your shoes up so she doesn't have to walk down in her climbing shoes. keep her happy :)

Week with Pete 5.2 at Parking lot, Peewee playhouse 5.4 upper vadar, kate's arete 5.4 apocolypse wall, Dirtigo, wimpy gilman, mogli grape at Venus wall.


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By Mike V.
May 7, 2012

It doesn't get much easier than clipity (though it has a long approach). There are a few easier climbs at the parking lot wall ("a week with pete" comes to mind). I'm a pretty terrible climber, and I was able to do clipity in sneakers, It is more of a super exposed hike (with a few climbing moves thrown in for good measure) than a rock climb. That being said, I'd certainly never solo it, but I've certainly seen it done.


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By Mike V.
May 7, 2012

Jake D. wrote:
walk off to climbers left, go back up Lady and the Tramp just to the right of Clippity. walk off again, don't rap. bring your shoes up so she doesn't have to walk down in her climbing shoes. keep her happy :) Week with Pete 5.2 at Parking lot, Peewee playhouse 5.4 upper vadar, kate's arete 5.4 apocolypse wall, Dirtigo, wimpy gilman, mogli grape at Venus wall.


There was a party ahead of us who rapped the route after we topped out. We beat them to the bottom (walking off) by at least 5 minutes. Also I agree with bringing some comfy shoes for the walk off.


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By Jake D.
From Northeast
May 7, 2012

yea, unless you have doubles (stupid at rumney) you need like 3-4 raps to get down. and with a new climber walking off is way faster and less stressful.


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By dragons
From Lowell, MA
May 7, 2012

Here are a few on Venus Wall that look easy and fun:
The Wimpy Gilman Ridge (5.4) - www.mountainproject.com/v/the-wimpy--gilman-ridge/105932996
Mowgli Grape (5.4) - www.mountainproject.com/v/mowgli-grape/105933024
Dirtigo (5.3) www.mountainproject.com/v/dirtigo/105932987

I confess, I haven't done them, though.


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By Brendan Blanchard
From Strafford, NH
May 7, 2012
Obi Wan Ryobi - Darth Vader Crag, Rumney NH

All of the above for 5.5 and below, maybe try one or two 5.6's if you're fine to lead, set the TR and re-climb to clean out the anchor (use your own gear!). Mom's Pancake at the Meadows is a shorter 5.6, Beginner's Route is a good 5.5 I've heard, although it IS trad.

Hope you have fun all around, it's a great area!


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By Jake D.
From Northeast
May 7, 2012

wow we only repeated most of those like 3 times ;)

beginners route is fun i wouldn't call the gear great though. pretty good run out at the top and would be a swing for the 2nd.


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By Kevin Heckeler
From Upstate New York
May 8, 2012
Rumney

Pee Wee's is okay, and there's a 5.6 variation on the right you could do, then just have her TR the easier 5.4 section. Plus the 5.7 Frosted Flakes to the left is a nice intro to 5.7 climbing, a couple hard, committing moves, then a good rest (teach her to rest, so she can finish harder climbs!), then a good pumpy 5.7 move near the top. Best part is it's short so she might actually finish it, and then feel accomplished she got up a solid 5.7

Don't shy away from pushing her grade, just do it in such a way she knows she doesn't have to get all the way up/no pressure. But if you give her the skills to be a good climber and repeat those things to her subtly as she climbs, she will enjoy climbing more. If she just flails her way up everything she won't be doing it for long. It's the skill of executing the moves that makes rock climbing fun. If she's genuinely interested in climbing and learning to climb she'll be receptive to advice this early in her climbing development. So remain positive and help coach her. maybe bring a friend you both know, sometimes it's hard to take advice from your partner and having a friend there to give the advice helps.


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By jake 356
From worcester
May 9, 2012

thanks for all the replies. she deffinatly is getting better but i deffinatly think a few of those will geto her really excited to do.


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By Bill Sacks
From Sacramento, CA
May 9, 2012
Chapel Pond

Check out my recent TR here

There are MP links to all of the routes we climbed there, and a few were under 5.8.


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